Namibia - Kaokoland OOOODS / OOOOMS 2009/10

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:15 pm

It's also foolhardy, especially if you're unprepared .... no puncture repair kit .... that's 'equip 101' ... I never even travel around town without it. And then of course there's so many other things that can go wrong. That land is ruggedly beautiful, but can also be very inhospitable ..... and I thought I take chances. Just as well you came along!

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:44 pm

All three vehicles were equipped with puncture repair kits, however Franken's tyre had a bad side-wall cut 4' inches long. His tyres were way to hard 3.something bar, so we let them down!!! He did not want to risk travelling further by himself (wise move) as he had no further back-up!

Ensure you have x2 spare tyres when going down VZ's!!!!!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 1:15 am

Ok ja, sidewall cuts are a totally different matter ....

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:54 pm

I wonder why it look so familiar.... AWESOME, AWESOME, AWESOME AGAIN!!!!!

We also took with solution and patch, and the tools to get tyre off, would've been able to repair that gash.

But doesn't matter what you take with, never, never do that alone.

andrevt · Post by **andrevt** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 6:01 pm

hi mark
dis fantastiese fotos maak net die voete jeuk om net die pad weer na iewers te vat

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 6:36 pm

andrevt wrote:maak net die voete jeuk om net die pad weer na iewers te vat

Wat is fout het jou lux nie petrol nie of staan hy

Joke net

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:15 pm

From the bottom of Van Zyls we planned to travel up via Marienfluss to Camp Syncro which becomes a dead end into the Kunene river bordering Angola. A 50km drive, wher we planned to camp for the night.

A beautiful drive with mountains on either side!

These bare patches are called f.... ...... let's see who know's what they are called and how they are formed!

Road to Syncro Camp

View's of the Kunene

Quick swim just to refresh!

There are x2 campsites in the area the community camp and Syncro Camp, we opted for Syncro. Nice and clean with hot water and friendly staff. R60.00 per person

Overlooking the river!

No swimming is allowed here as there are crocs around :!:

We were the only people camping here. Later that afternoon another vehicle arrived (a Swiss couple) who we also travelling alone with a rental LR......We later invited them over for supper, as they had no meat or fresh supplies with them.... We introduced the to Boerewors and Pap

which they had never tasted before and loved it!!! So happend that they were quite afraid of travelling alone so I asked invited them also to travel with us, as they dearly wanted to see Serra Cafema, which was on our route. So now we had Franken and the Swiss couple Ariella & Stephan.
This week we recieved an email from them:
Attached:
Hi Mark, Danelle & Kiara

It's so nice to hear about you.
As we arrived home we had almost a heart attack because of the weather - it was cold (-5 degrees), snowing and foggy!! it tooked us really a few days to accept that we are back home. Namibia was for us such an great experiance, also because we met you guys. We still have some great moments in mind, beeing to the dunes up in Hartmanns Valley :-)
At the moment I try to sort out a few pictures to send it to you but it's not that easy with about 2000 I took in total....

And what about your plans to go to Namibia again? If possible - and of course if it would be ok for all of you - it would be graet to meet you on the trip. Because that's for shure, we haven't been the last time to namibia! But next time not with a LandRover again... :-)

Would be nice to stay in touch - regards to Debbie and Sieg and of course to Franken.

Greetings from Winterthur
Ariella and Stephan

From here we would head South and take a short-cut over the Harmansberge to Serra Cafema. The route is marked on the GPS 'private road'

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:59 pm

They're called 'Fairy Circles' and their origin is still a matter of ongoing research, but the two most popular explanations is that the soil was poisoned by some form of toxic plant that grew there ... or ... it is the result of previous termite activity.

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:10 pm

Mark, ek sien geen crocks nie

Ek hoor daai log pilots is redelik aggresief en gaan vir enige iets wat beweeg. Het al gewonder wanneer ek daar kom of en n dip gaan vat en gatskoon maak

Andy saw a program on the FC and i must say the plant option I am not so sure of

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:36 pm

100% Correct MD / Niel

imo they are caused by termites as there is no other sigh of vegetation in or around the area, mainly grass. Then again I did'nt dig toooo much!

The swim for me was very brief as I had no intention of meeting a 'flat dog' especially in the water. But the locals assured me there were none in that pool......

That evening we took a spotlight and saw lots of red eye's in the river metre's from where Kiara sat on the donkey......

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:43 pm

I don't have a theory of my own as to how they're formed, Niel ... IIRC those were the more popular explanations. I think there are other theories about magnetism / mineral or chemical deposits, but those would surely not result in symmetrical circles.

Ja nee! I've got a healthy respect for the 'flat dogs' .... far more than I had in my reckless youth ..... I also would'nt take chances any more ..

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:27 am

Daai plat honde is daar. Ons het biekie gekuier stroomaf van die valle by Epupa by 'n snadbank, en net na ons daar weg is, het die ander klomp saam met ons een van daai bytmasjiene afgeneem op 'n sandbank oorkant waar ons was...

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:49 am

Hennie, toe ons by Epupa was het ons ook die kleintjie op die sandbank gesien, so 1.2m lank.

Die laaste dag het Danelle met die farlooker gesit en sien sy wat sy gedink het 'n groot klip was.....maar die klip het beweeg en toe sien ons dis 'n 3.5m plat-hond.....

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:37 pm

In Mana Pools we stopped at an inland dam (600 m x 500 m) and the log pilots were closing in and fast as well. This dam must be getting water in the rain season as there was no water running into it and the Zambezi was about 5 km away.

Same at Kalitzo Lodge in the Caprivi - saw them go down stream - also caught a few big tiger fish there

Ek laaik nie daai lelike klein ogies wat vir my loer die hele tyd nie :|

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:31 pm

From Syncro Camp we headed South again (as you can't go further North), and decided to cross the Hartmansberge. There is a 'private road only' that we found on the GPS that crosses the mountains, found out it was pretty hectic at stages but after Van Zyls proved to be a breez. A bit of a short-cut. There is also a deserted mine (granite) along the route. Beautiful route I may add

Once over the Harmansberge mountains we would go North to Serra Cafema the most North Western part of Namibia :

Rocky road...

Deserted mine.

If you have ever wondered what it feels like on the moon.....take a drive over this mountain range :!:

Riverbed brunch

In the backround you see the beautiful mountains of Angola

The wies are spectacular, also you can see 100's of fairy circles!

On route to Serra Cafema Lodge we came across some nice dunes

Serra Cafema Lodge: we parked, walked into the lodge and were greeted by a happy camp manager. He asked: did you have a good flight? Flight....we drove here! Nobody drives here he says!!! Well come in for some drinks! He was obviously expecting some 'fly in' customers

Nice lodge, but at 1000 USD per person per night we decided to head for the hills....

We were then directed to a riverbed we could camp at about 10km form the lodge. So off we went!

What an awsome place to camp

From here we would travel to Orupembe, verby Oranje Drom, en dan na

Puros

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:47 pm

Some of those first pics look like the areas where we go hunting. I see you were joined by another vehicle ... a LR nogal!

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:42 am

Nogal a LR.....what's wrong with that?

but it was a rental vehicle the for Swiss couple, they actually own a LC at home

Must say I said a lot of prays during this time

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:52 pm

Now where was I? Oh yes....on the way to Orupembe and then Puros!

The road from Serra Cafema was..., a hard ride, jeep rack & with corrogation for wich felt like 100's of km. Having said that the scenary was good with springbuck and gemsbuck scattered all over the place. Quit amazing how these animal survive in this barren land!

Then past 'blou drom' which must have been painted by a Freestate farmer

Gemsbuck all around!

Spot the chair....

The HUGE TOWN Orupembe

We were looking forward to a nice restaurant and wine

The police station.....

The One Stop Shop and only

Franken saying his goodbuy's

as he headed to Etosha

And the Swiss couple off to Etosha

So off we continued to Puros

Riverbed driving again....me at my happiest :!: :!: :!:

Kiara (4) named it the 'Fairy Mountain' as we drove around it!

That afternoon after lots of driving we decided to call it a day and camp in the riverbed about 30km from Puros.

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 11:26 pm

Magnifique!!!!

Exceluistii!!!!

What a glorius, glorius country!!!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 11:49 pm

Barren but beautiful at the same time!

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:58 am

I hope we will see this trip on its way soon

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:25 am

I hope we will see this trip on its way soon

Agreed!!! It's terrible looking at the pics every day

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:52 pm

Oooomsie, Bump!!!!!!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Mar 06, 2010 11:54 pm

He made some excuse day before yesterday that he had loaded something like 20 more pics and was about to post when his 3G connection failed!

Maybe we'll give him the benefit of the doubt and accept that as the truth.

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:27 am

Tx for being so understanding

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:02 am

That evening (Kiara's (5) idea, we went looking for ellies down the river bed...

Not long and we found some fesh spoor

The next morning we left for Puros, a short drive.

Heavy rains in this area cause lots of trees to be uprooted like this.

Beautiful landscape

Office / reception at Puros campsite. Each site has running water, toilet, and shower (donkey) There are only 7/8 sites, however if they are full you can make a plan as the sites are spread out quite far apart

Campsite

If you want to see LOTS of ELLIES.....this is the place to be. They even come right into your campsite

This fella caught us by surprise, as did many others. I could not take any more pics in fear of irritating him, however he came approx. 1m from myself and Kiara.....stood there for a few mins and I then had to chase him away :!: :!: :!:

We all have our duties when camping.....Kiara's favourite

IMO really worth staying here 2/3 nights

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:40 am

Mark, glad to see we are back on track

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:44 am

3G werk lekker saam vanoggend

maar ekke nou moeg !

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:19 am

Niel wrote:Mark, glad to see we are back on track

Ditto .... but for how long!!??

The ellies that came close are most likely used to being fed tit-bits by campers .... I doubt that they would come that close peacefully otherwise. Could be a problem.

Post by **0000DS** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:31 am

Mud Dog wrote:[The ellies that came close are most likely used to being fed tit-bits by campers .... I doubt that they would come that close peacefully otherwise. Could be a problem.

We noticed that the elephants in Namibia are not as destructive as the elephants found in Botswana and RSA. This one was very curious though. It was an fairly old Bull. Everywhere in the campsite, there are sign boards advising visitors to pack away all food and interesting things, as these elephants do wander into your campsite and would like to see all that you have. Most of the elephants that we came accross, would only look at us and walk straight past.

When we were in the "Brandberg Mountain area", we spoke to the resort owners at the "White Lady", who advised that their elephants regularly demolish their campsite and garden. But it is the elphants domain and as they had made their resort in the middle of the elephant territory, they live with it.

They have made their peace with the elephants

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:25 am

Very intelligent animals, those obviously must be very used to human contact, and although they have few natural enemies and appear very 'rustig' and docile, they are still wild and can be unpredictable. I would have probably have had to change my shorts

..... I was once charged on foot by one of those giants, came across it very unexpectedly in poor light. It was a female with calf which is probably why it was so aggressive but fortunately she gave up the chase very quickly, not wanting to leave the calf alone. I'm sure that my sprint time would have qualified for the Olympics!

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:17 am

I'm sure that my sprint time would have qualified for the Olympics

Same here, myself and Debbie (Zieg's) Swambo went looking for one in the camp (like kidz) and the ellie turmed and charged.....luckily only a 10m mock charge, but I could run faster than her

.....it's on video

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:23 am

No cameras around at the time of my incident (must've been about 30yrs ago), but if there were, a pic of my face could have been a nice replacement for this smiley

......

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:29 pm

In and around Puros, there is plenty of game to be viewed.

From Puros we headed South through Puros Canyon , Hoanib Canyon and then to Sesfontein where we would refuel. The scenary changes here from km to km once out of the canyon's!

IMO this would have been one of the highlites of the trip

Lots of river crossings in this canyon all year around!

At the end of the Canyon there is a lodge being built, we took a left there and headed for the Hoanib Canyon!

GPS said 'Thick sand' and it was!!!

Beginning of Hoanib Canyon :!:

Lunch.

At the end of the Canyon the GPS says 'extreme dust', trust me like powder :!: Here is a good time to keep your windows 'closed'

At Sesfontein, there is a garage.....however luckily we both required diesel, as there was no petrol available

From there we headed to the 'WARM QUELLE'

Where we spent New Year's!
More pics to follow!!!

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:53 pm

Dki OOOOMS- dis BAAAIIIEEE goeie memories!!!

Traveler · Post by **Traveler** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:00 pm

Mark, dit is 'n amazing trip report. Baie dankie.

Hoe mis ek nou die duine.

warthog · Post by **warthog** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:07 pm

OOOOMS wrote: At the end of the Canyon the GPS says 'extreme dust', trust me like powder :!: Here is a good time to keep your windows 'closed'

Genoem "poepstof" in the heavenly language

[/quote]At Sesfontein, there is a garage.....however luckily we both required diesel, as there was no petrol available[/quote]

You were lucky, we got nothing!!!

[/quote]More pics to follow!!![/quote]

YESSSSS, PLEASSSSSSSE!!!!!!

wim · Post by **wim** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:09 pm

Jou dogtertjie is al grootgenoeg om te kan onthou,dink net aan die mooi herineringe wat sy eendag gaan he.

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:25 am

New Year's eve

From Warm Quelle, some 800m South back into the Hoanib riverbed

GPS se weer 'extreme dust' gou,gou is die vensters toe

Breakkie :!:

GPS Warnings: Caution Flooding, one can see why!!!

These banks are 10m+ high :!:

Post by **Mud Dog** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:54 am

Really beautiful and interesting! Keep it going Mark!

Senyetse · Post by **Senyetse** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:30 am

Wow Mark, awesome trip!

My SWAMBO was born in Swakop, my parents-in-law lived in SW for several years, also in Tsumeb. I've never been myself and SWAMBO has not been back again (can't remember the place) so its time we go. Are you planning another trip? I'm thinking of going December 2011. Maybe we can organise a trip?

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:33 am

Charles, def going again this December, for sure

And the next and the next.......

Post by **0000DS** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:41 am

OOOOMS wrote:Charles, def going again this December, for sure

And the next and the next.......

If we don't make it our permanent residence before then

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:06 am

Charles, what are the names of your parents-in-law living in Tsumeb, maybe i know them.

Mark, uitstekende report! Sukkel nof om jou te reply oor my details....

Danelle, Kom van Pretoria af en dit het een vakansie gevat om my hart in Nam te verloor en ja is nou al 8 jaar hier, nog nie n dag spyt nie

Senyetse · Post by **Senyetse** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:22 am

Charles, what are the names of your parents-in-law living in Tsumeb, maybe i know them.

They left there years ago, now living in JHB.

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:50 am

Wil nie Mark se "trip report" oor neem nie maar ek dink dit pas nogal by die "tema"

Ek sing van n plek in die Namib woestyn
Waar die kwarteltjies roep: kelkiewyn,kelkiewyn
O, die lewe die lewe is n lied hier in Uis se kontrei
Aag man, as jy hier is, wil jy net hier bly.

Hier in die maag van die Uchab se sand
Kom drink ek, kom wei die woestynoliefant
In die berge se vou woon die Brandberg se vrou
n Oerou geheim net aan haar toevertrou

Die windlose vlaktes is springbok se land
Teen die dofblou lug troon die Branberg se rand
Verloor jou hart hier, dan sal jy jou vind
En word jy vir ewig die Namib se kind

Soek jy na rus vir jou siel en jou gees?
Die Namib-woestyn sal jou siekte genees
Daars geen beter plek om jou siel te kom prys
As die Uchabtivier se woestyn paradys

Die son gaan saans slaap teen die weste se kus
Die Namib is moeg van die heeldag se rus
Die dorpie se mense aan die mynhoop se kant
Gaan slaap met die hoenders in die Welwitschia-land

Dis hier waar die son die stad uit jou brand
En die ooswind jou sorge verwaai
Waar die duine, gesteentes, toermalyn en nagaat
die ou Namib se taal met jou praat

Witblits · Post by **Witblits** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:03 pm

Great report, makes one itch, Mark & Danelle. Always on the lookout for the next instalment. Going to Kaokoland in June, can't wait! First some much needed training in Boegoeberg in April courtesy of the graces of very experienced forum guys and gals.

Lekkerlees gediggie, Trevor.

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:25 pm

Well getting of the end of our trip (nearly).....there was some awsome river bed driving done for the day

Place called Little Serengeti.....I soon found out why! Shocked bu the change in scenery, one again :!:

Across the field and back into the riverbed, till we got to the Vetenary control point. The sand here was extremely thick....many a time in 4x4 low 1 gear

Heading for Xhorixas South of Etosha we came

across this little fella crossing the road and Kiara had to help it out of danger

Off towards Outjo! Nice little town and Otjiwarango

Luch stop in Ojiwarango just on the way out of town

This one is for Warthog - Hennie, tx for your trip report you did last year. It certainly inspired us to go on this trip also

On the way to Gobabis we ran into some heavy rain!

At Gobabis we stayed over next to the dam

Supper at the Lodge, which used to be a prison. Nice atmosphere

.....Actually I felt quite at home, not sure about the others

The next morning we headed for the border post and towards Kang, where we would sleep over.

And then home! The END

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Mar 15, 2010 1:56 am

Thanks Mark, it's been an interesting read with many fascinating pics! Enjoyed following it thoroughly!

Looking forward to the Moz report that's still outstanding!

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:10 am

Awsome pics. Definitely on my to do list. Lots of driving though so need to go up for at least 3 weeks else you will need another holiday to recoup from the driving.

Johan Kriel · Post by **Johan Kriel** » Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:56 pm

Great to see people enjoy our part of the world.

Hou da nou da · Post by **Hou da nou da** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:39 pm

Hi Mark i was reading your trip report and must congratualate you it is great, i however need some info regarding your trip. We our self planing a trip April next year but are thinking of towing offroad trailers, basically the same route but only going to Spitzkoppen from Windhoek and not going Solitaire Walvis and Swakop route, would you suggest it? or are we looking for trouble towing trailers?

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:47 pm

HOU DA NOU DA wrote:Hi Mark i was reading your trip report and must congratualate you it is great, i however need some info regarding your trip. We our self planing a trip April next year but are thinking of towing offroad trailers, basically the same route but only going to Spitzkoppen from Windhoek and not going Solitaire Walvis and Swakop route, would you suggest it? or are we looking for trouble towing trailers?

Hi Frans, you can tow your off-road trailer prob anywhere. The only place I would be carefull, is Van Zyls Pass. Guys have however taken trailers down there sucessfully. Other than that no problems

Here is a very nice report written by Hennie aka warthog , they used trailers:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8002" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2.8 d/cab SFA · Post by **2.8 d/cab SFA** » Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:21 am

oh so wow thnaks

Post by **Whisky** » Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:10 pm

OOOOMS I have sent you a PM.

Sylvester · Post by **Sylvester** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:42 pm

Awesome report on an awesome trip! Thanks for sharing and inspiring!