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Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:55 pm
by Wayne
So I got tired of the Polar Bear dragging its bum on obstacles so decided to design and build a new bumper.
I had the components cnc plasma cut from my CAD drawing and bent.
In hindsight it would have been better to get it laser cut because it is a lot neater.
New bumper is about 60mm higher and 30mm shorter.
Im a designer not a welder so more grinding required.
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Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:58 pm
by Wayne
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Before and after clearance

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:41 pm
by smokintyres
Great job! What's the thickness of the steel?
The angle is quite a lot better from the looks of it. Just remember that your spare wheel may now be even more of a target for sharp rocks etc... Do you have a spare fuel tank under the spare wheel?

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:11 pm
by Danman
Hi Wayne, what was the cost of the bumper(material, cutting, welding and painting).
Was thinking of doing the same with Noster, but haven't seen nice(simple) enough bumper(not interested in integrated lights or spare wheel cariers etc).
Yours looks good.

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:22 pm
by Wayne
Hi Gernot
The majority is 3mm and the brackets from the chassis is 8mm
Dont have a tank under the wheel for that very reason. Ive seen friends leave there spare wheel behind

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:23 pm
by Wayne
Hi Danie

Material, cutting, bending about R1800
I did the welding. Still need to find out cost of powder coating

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:35 pm
by Mud Dog
Nice project. Don't powder coat - rather do hot dip galvanising and ask them not to dip it in a pacifier afterwards. Just use a galvanising cleaner (Plascon make one that leaves a dull gray surface) spray with red oxide etch primer (not water based!) and then a hard wearing black enamel.

The crappy thing about powder coating is that when the bumper gets scratched or chipped to expose the metal (and it will) then the rust starts and creeps in underneath it. by the time you see it the damage is severe and powder coating can't be 'touched up'. With the galv and enamel option, it will take a lot more to expose the steel for rust to start, and even if that happens it's easy to clean it up and touch up with cold galvanising (paint on application) and enamel .... and it's all DIY.

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:37 pm
by Mud Dog
P.S. The cost difference between p/coating and galv is minimal.

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 3:24 pm
by Wayne
Hi Andy

Im not keen to hot dip galvanise because of the chance of warpage.
Flat plate that has been cold bent has a tendancy to try and relieve the stresses when it is dipped.

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 3:42 pm
by Mud Dog
I've only experienced that problem with really thin gauge stuff. 1.8mm or more should be OK and the welds hold it to form. If it were me, I'd do it and be done. :winkx:

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 9:02 pm
by Froll
Looks very good Wayne. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 2:04 pm
by Jaws
Very good advice from Mud Dog. My stof pad rock slides are rusting under the power coating

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 8:13 pm
by Mud Dog
Herman, if the surface of the p/coating has not been compromised, then in all fairness it's not the p/coating at fault and more likely to have been poor preparation.

However, I still contend that p/coating is amongst the worst lot of crap ever to hit the markets. It's applied electrostatically as a fine powder and then baked but internal corners of the material don't attract the same thickness of powder as the outer corners or flat sections, so there is the first weakness. Then hollow material (pipes) do not coat internally, so rust starts on the inside and by the time you notice it, it's already eaten right through.

Now look at Herman's case, professionally made rock sliders with rust bubbling under the p/coating .... how to fix it? If you go in there with a grinder or sandblaster to get rid of the rust, you can't touch it up with powder coating. You have to use a paint on solution, some of which are pretty good, but if you don't use a spot putty or spray filler, you're always going to see the ugly patch marks like on a wall where some paint has peeled off and it's just been painted over. Even then, you will still notice the repaired patch which will have a different texture and sheen.
Alternatively you send it in for a complete sandblasting and then hot dip galv (which should have been the first option anyway), and just to make it a bit more difficult for the sand blaster guy, the p/coating does not come off as easily as enamel, not because it's tougher than enamel, but because it's not as hard and has a kind of cushioning effect on the sand - most of the time they'll just shot blast it. In the end the blasting might be a bit more pricey than normal costing.

It's no secret, I hate the stuff and I have yet to see a truly successful outcome after a couple of years, especially in coastal areas.
Rant over. :D:

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:59 pm
by niclemaitre
Or you can galv and powder coat...

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 4:09 pm
by Jaws
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Some pics of why I hate powder coating

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 12:51 am
by Mud Dog
Haul them off, sand-blast and hot dip before it eats too far. :winkx:

Re: Project Bumper

Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 10:23 am
by Wayne
So its finished at last

Had it hot dip galvanised and finished with enamel
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