Hilux 4x4 Forum

blast wrote:

CasKru wrote:

Gunta wrote:I think I will wait a bit and see if you get a genuine increase and then buy one.

And it is for this reason why I'm trying to do descent tests and get repeatable results.

test results for Ford Ranger independent test
This reactor was free of charge to gain more results this vehicle does 100 to 200 miles a day they tell me it has gained an extra 7 miles per gallon they are thinking of having rest of their fleet converted.

Is this for petrol or Diesel powered Ford?

CasKru wrote:

blast wrote:

CasKru wrote:

Gunta wrote:I think I will wait a bit and see if you get a genuine increase and then buy one.

And it is for this reason why I'm trying to do descent tests and get repeatable results.

test results for Ford Ranger independent test
This reactor was free of charge to gain more results this vehicle does 100 to 200 miles a day they tell me it has gained an extra 7 miles per gallon they are thinking of having rest of their fleet converted.

Is this for petrol or Diesel powered Ford?

I can find out, but i believe is petrol.

This is a very interesting concept, I could never understand it but there was a school bus driver in Delmas about 30 years ago he claimed he ran his school bus on water now I understand what he was talking about this is awesome. I might have missed it but where can I buy a unit like this.

Quintin wrote:This is a very interesting concept, I could never understand it but there was a school bus driver in Delmas about 30 years ago he claimed he ran his school bus on water now I understand what he was talking about this is awesome. I might have missed it but where can I buy a unit like this.

Send Manny an email at infodrycell@gmail.com

Thanks Cassie

Hi what is happening any more tests and results?

I have changed my setup. I don't want to post any information unless I have double checked my findings. I am still saving on fuel but figures vary at the moment due to me tinkering with the setup

Thanks, Please keep me informed as I am very interested in this was thinking to build a dry sell when I get back to SA and install this in my Peugeot 107 see what difference it can make.

Quintin wrote: Thanks, Please keep me informed as I am very interested in this was thinking to build a dry sell when I get back to SA and install this in my Peugeot 107 see what difference it can make.

Will do

Cassie, are you definitely saving fuel?

Gunta wrote:Cassie, are you definitely saving fuel?

Yebo. Currently it seems to hover in the region of 5%. I have modified my setup this past weekend and it seems like the economy has improved but it's to early to be 100% sure.

5% is way off 42%, surely there must be a general setting that gets it close to at least 20% and with some finer adjustments get it to 40%.
5 % savings could also be a change in driving style that you are not aware of.

Manny, do you offer a money back guarantee if it does not work. I am willing to try it and put it on a dyno to fine tune it to see if it works or not.

Gunta wrote:5% is way off 42%, surely there must be a general setting that gets it close to at least 20% and with some finer adjustments get it to 40%.
5 % savings could also be a change in driving style that you are not aware of.

Manny, do you offer a money back guarantee if it does not work. I am willing to try it and put it on a dyno to fine tune it to see if it works or not.

Keep in mind that the 40% was with more than one reactor.

I did an economy run before installing to get the absolute best the car could do. I would coast longer distances when approaching stop streets and also down hill where traffic permitted. I also tried to drive at 90km/h where I could as this is usually the cars most economical speed. On the highway I didn't go any faster then 120km/h and I never revved the car higher than about 3800rpm. Driving like this I achieved 13.48km/L. After installing the device the first week I got 14.3 km/L also driving economical but less so and getting stuck in traffic the one day where I was stuck for about 45 minutes (car was idling).

It is for this reason that I am doing descent testing so that I can guarantee my personal results I get.

Ok, I will wait and see what your results will get.

I have a goal of 10l/100km with no load on the open road with my 4y D/C. This must also be done with a carb. Tall order to say the least. I don't drive my bakkie every day so I am considering using a deep cycle battery with a removable solar pannel to keep it charged to run my dry cell setup. Just not sure how long it will last before the battery is depleted.

KZNSFA4Y wrote:I have a goal of 10l/100km with no load on the open road with my 4y D/C. This must also be done with a carb. Tall order to say the least. I don't drive my bakkie every day so I am considering using a deep cycle battery with a removable solar pannel to keep it charged to run my dry cell setup. Just not sure how long it will last before the battery is depleted.

Hi Cameron, if your drycell use more then 10 AMPS,take the fuse out, and forget about, as your battery will be flat most of the time.
Manny

Cassie, how is your test doing?

Gunta wrote:Cassie, how is your test doing?

Still going. I'm battling at bit at the moment as we are minus one car so we rotate the car and bakkie. I'm also still tinkering with the setup a bit and think I have found the reason why I am not getting the 31% improvement like the other guys do.

What was the problem?

Gunta wrote:What was the problem?

I haven't confirmed but believe that I am overheating the reactors thus reducing their perfomance

If the reactors are attached to the exhaust how can you run them cooler?

CasKru wrote:

Gunta wrote:What was the problem?

I haven't confirmed but believe that I am overheating the reactors thus reducing their perfomance

The Japanese are battling with the same problem right now... :problem:
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/asia- ... 17272.html

Gunta wrote:If the reactors are attached to the exhaust how can you run them cooler?

My setup is different to the other. The reactors are wedged between the heat shield and the manifold. This traps the heat and there is basically no wind flow.

Mr_B wrote:

CasKru wrote:

Gunta wrote:What was the problem?

I haven't confirmed but believe that I am overheating the reactors thus reducing their perfomance

The Japanese are battling with the same problem right now... :problem:
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/asia- ... 17272.html

Eish Mr B I think they have other problems as well, I would not like to have those reactors attached to my car when they explode.

KZNSFA4Y wrote:I have a goal of 10l/100km with no load on the open road with my 4y D/C. This must also be done with a carb. Tall order to say the least. I don't drive my bakkie every day so I am considering using a deep cycle battery with a removable solar pannel to keep it charged to run my dry cell setup. Just not sure how long it will last before the battery is depleted.

i would say this is very achievable,
even without the help of hydrogen.
I once took a drive just me and family , on highway keeping it on about 90kph, and got 9'ish km/lt.
And my carb is import, which by all reports is slightly thirstier.

I would like to achive 10km/l loaded though - with the help of hydrogen - if it can
That would be a drastic saving over my 6km/l now.

Very achievable ..... my 4Y used to get up to 11k / lit on the open road without a heavy load and no head wind. (Completely standard setup with a brospeed branch, Nikki carb not EFI and on 30' tyres). Admittedly this was measured against the speedo and not GPS, but I also believe that a lot is attributable to driving style. Avoid harsh acceleration, take the foot off long before an approaching stop (i.e. avoid heavy braking .... it's lost energy), Listen to your motor - don't let it labour unnecessarily (rather change down with a lighter foot than foot flat in a higher gear), very often you will find that with the foot flat up an incline you will still not accelerate but if you slacken it off a little you will maintain the same speed as with it flat and of course there is the speed issue ... mine used to be happiest around 100 / 110 km/h (speedo).

You don't have to be a petrol miser, but just remain aware and use a little common sense.

Mud Dog wrote:Very achievable ..... my 4Y used to get up to 11k / lit on the open road without a heavy load and no head wind. (Completely standard setup with a brospeed branch, Nikki carb not EFI and on 30' tyres). Admittedly this was measured against the speedo and not GPS, but I also believe that a lot is attributable to driving style. Avoid harsh acceleration, take the foot off long before an approaching stop (i.e. avoid heavy braking .... it's lost energy), Listen to your motor - don't let it labour unnecessarily (rather change down with a lighter foot than foot flat in a higher gear), very often you will find that with the foot flat up an incline you will still not accelerate but if you slacken it off a little you will maintain the same speed as with it flat and of course there is the speed issue ... mine used to be happiest around 100 / 110 km/h (speedo).

You don't have to be a petrol miser, but just remain aware and use a little common sense.

i agree with Andy.Just also want to add that the more standard you keep the bakkie the better for fuel efficiency.
The more extras you add the heavier on fuel.e.g raised suspension,bigger wheels,replacement bull bar,rtt ect.

Mud Dog wrote:Very achievable ..... my 4Y used to get up to 11k / lit on the open road without a heavy load and no head wind. (Completely standard setup with a brospeed branch, Nikki carb not EFI and on 30' tyres). Admittedly this was measured against the speedo and not GPS, but I also believe that a lot is attributable to driving style. Avoid harsh acceleration, take the foot off long before an approaching stop (i.e. avoid heavy braking .... it's lost energy), Listen to your motor - don't let it labour unnecessarily (rather change down with a lighter foot than foot flat in a higher gear), very often you will find that with the foot flat up an incline you will still not accelerate but if you slacken it off a little you will maintain the same speed as with it flat and of course there is the speed issue ... mine used to be happiest around 100 / 110 km/h (speedo).

You don't have to be a petrol miser, but just remain aware and use a little common sense.

I think this only applies at sealevel.

Admittedly, the denser air at sea level helps.

I am having many Ideas for generating electricity with my vehicles wasted energy and using that to produce HHO. One Idea I have had is to get a secondary alternator with a much faster pully and flywheel setup and attach it to a relay that is activated by the current to my break lights. Also looking at ways to use the heat of my exhaust to generate electricity.

I can't wait to just put some dry cells to begin with.

Check this out http://www.waterpoweredcarplans.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I believe that the first automobiles, trains and some ships was powered only by water !!
They had the technology 100 years ago.
We have done it before, we can do it again

Hi guys, I've been reading about the H2O booster on the site and it sounds good.
In fact I've started building one myself now.
I just have a question for Irishman.

Are you still using the hydrogen on your bakkiie and have you had any negative effects on the engine so far? Corrosion or overheating etc?

Thanks

Andre

Hi guys,

I've just finished reading through this lengthy topic and am impressed by what you guys have achieved. However, it seems both this thread and the experiments have died a silent death - no posts, no questions, no results, etc.

Are any of you guys still busy with any of these experiments? If so, how about some feedback - even if it is by PM - please?

Shalom

Die goed werk ,,,,,soos julle sal sê fotos bevestig alles ek sal moet gaan soek in my arhives..
Ek het dit op my nissan 1400 gesit waar ek normaal weg 12km/l sonder die sel gekry het het ek to 22km/l gekry met die sel aan.

Ek het eers begin speel met n natsel tipe (toilet waterpyp so +- 30cm lank waarvan die 1 kant geseel is en die ander kant n skroefprop met die terminals aan stainlessteel plate gekoopel) waar jy die sel in n bak met die oplossing insit en dan die krag daardeur stuur en die gas daarvan vrygestel deur die bubblers hardloop om dit nontoxic te maak vir die alluminum want dit vreet dit op.

Om wel seker te maak dat dit gas is en nie stoom wat vrygestel word nie het ek n ballon gevat en dit vol gemaak (tot hy so groot soos n netbalbal is) met die hydrogen wat vrygestel word en dan n baie lang stukkie wol wat in petrol gedoop was daaraan vasgemaak en dit an die brand gesteek ....dit is dangerous doen dit nie in jou motorhuis nie jy sal permanente gehoor skade hê .... dit ontplof erger as wat jy n 2 liter bottel met breakfluid en chloor laat ontplopf. Ek het gevind dat die sel nie effektief is nie en dat as jy nie presies die regte hoeveelhied caustic soda in gedisteleerde water oplos nie en as die spasiering van die plate in die sel te groot of te klein is dan sit jy met n warm water heater want jy trek te veel ampere vanaf die alternator en die hoeveel heid gas wat vrygestel word is te min om enige besparing te kry.......
Want as die oplosiing nie reg is nie trek jy te veel ampere en sit n swaarder las op die enjjin wat maak dat die engin meer petrol gebruik om die alternator aan die gang te hou = geen besparing nie.

Toe ek sien dit werk het ek besluit om droë sel te bou ( 2 sel met 11 plate in met 2mm gaps tussen in plate waar die negatiewe terminaal aan 1st en laaste plaat gekoppel is en die positief aan die middelste 1 en die res van die plate dien as floaters waar die krag van die 1 na die ander plaat spring wanneer die oplossing deur die sel vloei , die kante was van deurskynende perspex 10mm dik en die seels tussen in wat vir my die 2mm spasie gegee het was n tipe rubbermat verkrygbaar by Sondor in silverton, die outlets was van Gardena fittings wat ek gemodify het,,,jy kan nie koper gebruik nie dit word gevreet deur die oplossing,Elektriese draad was sweis kabels vanaf battery, en dan die normale relays, ampmeter, heat gauges, led liggies ,switches,,Schrubber container en dan container met die oplossing in , ,pypies vir die vloei van die gas,)

ooo en dan natuurlik moet die inlaat van die gas so na aan die butterfly wees as moontlik vir die tipe voertuie wat nie fuel injected is nie,,,,as hy fuel injected is kom die gas direk by die airbox in

.....die tipe sel lê glad ni in n oplossing nie, die oplossing vloei tussen die plate deur wat
maak dat dit n baie koeler stelsel is.....ek het egter bietjie gesukkel met die uitleg van die sel oor die beperkte spasie binne die enjinkajuit vir die montering daarvan.
Die sel moet sover as moontlik die heel laagste wees van die sisteem as jy slegs van gravity feed gebruik maak. Waarmee ek nog gesukkel het was dat die sel nie moet lek nie want die goed is corrosive want jy gebruik (Drain Cleaner) Vir die enjin cc 1400 - 2000 het jy nie meer as 2l gas per minuut nodig om liggter op brandstof te wees nie dus het jy n sekere opppervlakte nodig vir n sekere totaal in liter gas wat jy nodig het.

Met die stelsel aan en dan af het ek fisies petrol in n 1 liter bottel gegooi en die main tank s'n ontkoppel en dit opgesit en met oop stuk pad wat stil verkeer het gevat en gery tot ek gaan staan het afstand gemeet carb weer vol gemaak en weer gery vir toetse.

Wel om van Pta na Bfn en terug te ry met 1 45l tank petrol ja met 1 tank petrol met n standaard nissan 1400 sal ek dit insit dit werk. Ek het ongelukkig nie die toerusting of fondse gehad om dit netjies te kan CNC cutting en dit 100% te kan maak met die korrekt spasiering en die regte graad stainless steel plaat nie indien wel met die minimum wat ek kon doen was daar ......savings all the way.....

Voordat ek 1400 verkoop het het ek als uit die bakkie uitgehaal en wou nie die volgende eienaar afskrik met die stelsel nie want hy sou nie geweet het waarvoor dit is nie,,,, n paar het my so aangekyk as ek petrol ingooi en hulle check die water dan sê ek maar net dis n nuwe verwarmer stelsel

MOET NET NIKS VANAF DIE INTERNET KOOP NIE NIE EERS PLANNE DIE LEESTOF IS DAAR DIT IS VERNIET

Thanks Willem. What about the pioneers who started all of this (Piet Petoors, Irishman, Manny, etc.)? Why are you guys so quiet on this topic?
Who would venture an opinion to say which system (wet- or dry cell) is most effective?

Hi,

Enige feedback op n 2.7i?
Ek bekyk dit ook al baie lank.
Gebruik die ouens wat die protipes gebou het nog of het hul al beter stesels gemaak?

Ron Irishman has long since been inactive on the forum .... same goes for Manny. As I recall Manny pursued this to the point where he made a business out of it, supplying and fitting units. I built two units but never installed either .... I was a bit concerned about the effects on the exhaust / silencers (rust).

Cassie fitted it to his Tazz maybe he can give us a long term update.

metal detectors are very helpful, it can be used to detect the underground metals and even can help you find the metal goods that you lost easily. and when it find the metal it will give you an indication, which is really amazing.

I have built a number of these hydrogen systems and the problems I found is overheating of the cell and very high amps (20 - 25 Amps) requirement to produce enough gas to make a difference. Heat buildup is caused by the high amps being pushed through the system. The electrolyte is depleted fairly quickly at this rate of amps. I used both bicarb and caustic and got the same gas production with both. Safety is a factor because H2 is very explosive. You notice a difference at idle because the small volume of gas makes a difference at idle but very little at operating conditions. Another mod I did was to use a alternating power supply - the + and - changing every 5 minutes to eliminate build-up on the cathode. I used both stainless (316) and titanium for electrodes and even tried platinum coated titanium probes. I installed an ammeter to monitor and regulate the amps and the problem is that the amps drop fairly quickly when the system heats up and the electrolyte is depleted. I had to continuously adjust the amps to regulate the system. All this work for a very little increase in fuel consumption. I don't think it is worth the effort.

Ek het gister 'n Chev Elcamino 5.7 V8 gesien met ;n droësel voorheen 3.5km/l nou 7km/l
Op die ou se seun se 1.5 hyundai kry hy 200km per tank meer "45L"

Ek gaan nou ook bietjie begin rond krap, dit gaan tyd vat maar nou ja ek is geduldag.

Toe ek aangesluit het by die forum het ek alles gelees oor die, en toe skielik het alle gesprekke dood geloop. Geen bespreukings verder nie.

Ek is ook baie lus om dit te probeer. Is net bang vir 'n "ka-boem"

Jip daai ka-boem .......Eina!

Die "Ka-Boom" is nie vir my 'n bekommernis nie .... die bedrading moet net eenvoudig 'n over-ride OFF switch binne in die kajuit hê asook 'n relay wat nie toelaat dat die eenheid krag kry sonder dat die enjin loop nie. Wat my meer bekommer is dat dit nie saak maak as daar af en toe 'n bietjie water kondensaat by die silinder kop / uitlaat stelsel deurloop nie, maar as dit altyd voortdurend is wonder ek wat gaan gebeur met die uitlaat kleppe, exhaust ports, manifold, uitlaat pype en knaldemper. As daar skade gely gaan word deur roes, korrosie of erosie, dan is die konsep nie meer so aantreklik nie. Daar is nie genoeg terugvoering oor wat in die lang termyn verwag kan word nie.

Net my gedagtes daaroor.

Hi guys

I'm new to you forum here. I been look to run HHO setup in my little nissan 1400 bakkie with FI setup on it. And been reading over topic you have going and going me get most of the part need to run it today.

I wanna ask if you could send me the magic mox you are use as your electorlite in the water. As I'm test it out with becarb for now. Going to builders tomorrow to get the 316 ss fencing wire you have recommended to use. And the fish tank valves. I got my bottle ready with perspex lids that swap out the metal ones.

Thank you.

Hi.

Stay away from the wire type HHO generators. Rather use the Plate types as per :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHO-DUAL-DRY-CE ... 325a5a950

I have done some work on these before I went EFI. I have 2 units and some leftover of the kit after removal for sale. I have details of clean catalysts to use...

PM me if you are interested.

Regards

Otto