Hilux 4x4 Forum

has any one got any insight on bio diesel because i just swaped the old petrol hilux for a newer diesel one and i have an unlimited supply of chip fat oil, and im a student so cheap fuel would be nice.

Hi Stuart

Have a look at this forum. http://biodiesel.nanoelf.co.za/forum/
It is South African based, but I'm sure most of the threads are in english anyway.

Hope these helps Stuart
www.toyotasurf.asn.au
http://www.greenteam-supermarket.com/

Jess

hey tinman.

I wanted to make my own as well, the only problme was the supply of old fish oil in Cape Town.
Some of the guys on nanoelf forum reported his sales rep being intimidated mafia style for the fish oil.

So if you have a good , cheap supply, it's definately worth it.
Only thing you have to check if you fuel system rubber components are synthetic. BD will erode natural rubber, including rubber in you pump.

Toyota could not give me a straight answer on this when I was in the market for a 2000 model 3000D.
All they said some of their client are running it for a while now. last I heard is that toyota will only guarentee a 5% BD mix. all that trouble for 5% it's not worht it though.

BD also has about 10% less power, but it's viscocity is much higher. Apprently it's also has higher octane if I recal correctly.

my friends were doing the whole bio diesel thing here in cape towm
They got the oil from kfc @R2 per litre.
The 280D pump packed up(not definably from the bio but maybe),and the brand new hilux injectors were starting to give probs and diesel light kept coming on .
He stopped using it first when he found out the price of injectors and the mantenance plan wouldnt be honoured anymore
They scrapped it once the fuel price came down.
They ran it for nearly a year.It cost them R5.50 per litre
Some facts from personal experience.

so why are the vehicle manufacturers not building cars that can handle alternative fuels.
BD / Diesel for the oil burners, and petrol / ethanol for petrol vahicles.

All over the world filling stations have options for various fuels incl LPG, hydrogen, Methane etc, etc.
Just good old RSA that has to stay in the third world.

We like reliability!


-F_D

Ja, but what expense.
What happens if all the oil dries up. We still be stuck petrol stations only.
Nothing more reliable than a horse and cart

Using bio diesel is great as long as you dont have electronic injectors. I run 2 of my work vehicles on a 75% blend, which gives better fuel consumption with very little noticable loss in power. One is a nissan 2.7TD the other a kia 2700. My D4D runs on good old pump diesel. Cost saving on Bio is 80c a liter, which considering that I use 2 to 3 tanks a week saves lots of money. Even in the states where Bio fuel is big, electronic injector vehicles are a no go.

Hi All,

I am pleased to inform that my Father makes Bio - Diesel in Malawi ! all our bakkies run on it!

Hehehe 100% GREEN

I have a client that ran his Corsa 170D (1st gen diesel) for some time. Two sets of injectors and an injector pump later he is back to pump fuel.

We used to run four of our company vehicles on Biodiesel that I would make, 2 Toyota Dyna's and 2 Fiat Doblo's the Fiats where not happy with it and I discovered the reason was the Lucas pump, so because of that we went back to diesel for them. The Dyna's just kept going merrily along until I found it was taking me to much time to make the Biodiesel and called a halt to it.
A few months later when the cost of Diesel finally sunk in I looked about and found a Conversion Kit that allows us to run the Dyna's on waste vegetable oil, the only thing to be done is filtering and away you go, one of the Dyna's has now done over 130,000 kilometers on WVO with the only problems being a few blocked filters and that I blame myself for.

username wrote:my friends were doing the whole bio diesel thing here in cape towm
They got the oil from kfc @R2 per litre.
The 280D pump packed up(not definably from the bio but maybe),and the brand new hilux injectors were starting to give probs and diesel light kept coming on .
He stopped using it first when he found out the price of injectors and the mantenance plan wouldnt be honoured anymore
They scrapped it once the fuel price came down.
They ran it for nearly a year.It cost them R5.50 per litre
Some facts from personal experience.

Would never touch waste oil from KFC they use an additive to prolong the cooking life of the oil but has to be filtered out before you can use it for any kind of Biofuel

Would never touch waste oil from KFC they use an additive to prolong the cooking life of the oil but has to be filtered out before you can use it for any kind of Biofuel[/quote]

DaveG, I'm not an expert on this but I'd rather say it's the type of oil they use. Most places like KFC, Spur and Ocean Basket use Palm Oil which gels at temperatures below +/- 23*c and I don't think you want that stuff in your fuel line I would rather use sunflower oil which you can get from places like Steers and your local fish and chips shops.

I have BD quality tested often from the private manufacturers. The main problem is water dilution - it is expensive to dry the diesel and secondly the lack of lubrication additives cause huge problems. That is why the pumps and injectors fail sooner than it should. The presence of water and lack of lubrication causes excessive erosion - hence the failures. The guys who manufacture the BD do not add the required additives - again this is expensive and they don't know what to add. This is a scientific process which requires continuous testing (expensive) to ensure the quality is good and up to the required standard. I wanted to add a test report for clarification but the forum does not want to upload it.....HELP pls!

pietdevs wrote:I have BD quality tested often from the private manufacturers. The main problem is water dilution - it is expensive to dry the diesel and secondly the lack of lubrication additives cause huge problems. That is why the pumps and injectors fail sooner than it should. The presence of water and lack of lubrication causes excessive erosion - hence the failures. The guys who manufacture the BD do not add the required additives - again this is expensive and they don't know what to add. This is a scientific process which requires continuous testing (expensive) to ensure the quality is good and up to the required standard. I wanted to add a test report for clarification but the forum does not want to upload it.....HELP pls!

Click post reply
Scroll down to filename click on choose file
click on add the file
finish your post comments and click submit and your test report should be added

Thanks for letting me into the wonderful world of technology Dave!

Attached is a typical test report of BD that I did. This diesel caused various failures (diesel pumps and injectors) on a number of vehicles even though it conformed to the SANS specs. Main problem was that no additives were added to allow for lubrication, anti bacterial properties, etc etc. It caused excessive sludging in the diesel tanks and diesel filters of the vehicles - again because of no correct additives.
Note the low sulphur content of 5ppm - sulphur provides lubrication.
No distillation tests were done during this test but the next test when it was done revealed more than 10x the allowable water content from the same manufacturer.
I would certainly not use home made BD if the manufacturer does not at least have a test report like this one...

pietdevs wrote:Thanks for letting me into the wonderful world of technology Dave!

Attached is a typical test report of BD that I did. This diesel caused various failures (diesel pumps and injectors) on a number of vehicles even though it conformed to the SANS specs. Main problem was that no additives were added to allow for lubrication, anti bacterial properties, etc etc. It caused excessive sludging in the diesel tanks and diesel filters of the vehicles - again because of no correct additives.
Note the low sulphur content of 5ppm - sulphur provides lubrication.
No distillation tests were done during this test but the next test when it was done revealed more than 10x the allowable water content from the same manufacturer.
I would certainly not use home made BD if the manufacturer does not at least have a test report like this one...

Agree with you about buying Biodiesel from a home brewer Pieter, with the experience I have making the stuff for myself I know how difficult it can be to get a quality product consistently, incidentally I have a similiar certificate lying about the office somewhere from a company here in Joburg, when I made Biodiesel for our vans I used a dry wash system to remove the water and any glycerine left over from the processing but it was still taking up to much time to make.
The reason I say dont use McDonalds oil is not the palm oil but the additive they put in it is very difficult to filter out and keeps blocking up the filters.

Palm oil is not as bad as you think, I drove from Joburg down to Cape Town and back one time on scrap Palm Oil no trouble, it only starts to gel at plus minus 12c to 15c.
Have you never thought of using WVO instead of biodiesel much much less hassle and all you need to do is let the oil settle for at least two weeks and then filter the oil down to 1 micron.

Hi there guys

I am looking to buy a bakkie that I can convert to bio-diesel, does anyone maybe have information for me, on

:how to make biodiesel
:best "economic" hilux for the job
:changes that must be made to the engine
:and any tips you guys could give

Thanks a lot
Nathan

We produce biodiesel in Cape Town. We have years of experience in making and using. I have several trucks, cars and bakkies. All running on a 50-50 blend with 500ppm diesel for 8 years. Absolutely no problems and the best thing I could have done for my engines. Biodiesel has saved me over a R200 000-00 in 8 years. SPAR - the retail giant, use our biodiesel in their Mercedes Trucks (horses and rigids) driving many hundreds of thousands of kilometres a year. Now is that not proof that biodiesel works, works well, is better for the engine, the environment and their fuel bill.
Advantages of Biodiesel
•It cost less than regular diesel
•It contains no or little sulphur
•It has a higher Cetane rating that improves the efficiency of compression ignition
•NO engine modifications are necessary to use biodiesel on any diesel engine
•It is non-flammable, non-hazardous, non-toxic & environmentally friendly
•It has a flash point greater than 120°C while fossil diesel is approx. 70°C
•Users can switch between biodiesel and regular diesel as they wish
•It has superior cleaning properties over all other regular diesel
•It provides much better engine lubrication than regular diesel
•It produces 75% less exhaust smoke emissions
•It produces 80% less carbon dioxide emissions
•It is made from new or used cooking oil
•It extends engine life by up to 200%
•It mixes very well with regular diesel
•It is safe to store and handle
* Engines run 10% cooler

I am selling my hilux 2.4 petrol dbl cab and want to get a diesel to run on biodiesel (not sure about running on Hydrogen/H20 yet)
I started researching the corsa utility diesel or np200 diesel but found out the costs of possible injector failures are around R5000 per injector, so feeling like I'd rather get a double cab for the money and potential maintenance costs.

So looking at robust diesel engines, I'm looking at the GWM 2.8 TDI, found injectors at around R1200/injector, seems to be easy and economical to maintain - but would be good to compare with other vehicles and thats where some advise would really help!

Please can you guys advise me on what to consider for around or less than R100 000 budget.
Important for me:
- reliability, and suitability/durability on biodiesel
- drive comfort (the wife didn't enjoy the hilux's ride)
- fuel economy

I'm inspired by My friend who has been running his 1st gen corsa diesel utility for around 60 000km on used cooking oil using a 2-tank, solenoid switch system, and now opted to make his own biodiesel and go for a simpler option. His vehicle is still going well...

Before I make my own I would like to buy some BD from you John (I'm moving from JHB to Hermanus).

Correction on the GWM steed injectors - they are actually the same price as the np200 and corsa chev diesel injectors at around R5000 excl vat.
It was the diesel Isuzu's (1999) that had cheaper injectors at around R1100 each, a huge difference in price.
I'm just worried that the GWM is expensive to maintain/repair if something goes wrong - Below R100 000 they have over 100 000km, so wondering what would need replacing after this amount of wear...
the turbo on the GWM is also not a joke to replace, may as well scrap the vehicle if it costs more than the vehicle!

Please advise guys,
What's better for biodiesel, 2006 isuzu kb300 or 2010-2012 tata xenon 3l or 2.2 dicor?
Then what's better value for money?
They going for similar pricing but a good deal on the 3l came up. ..
I've left the gwm cos tata seems to be better, the 2.2 gives great efficiency and performance at around 100kw and 12km/l...

Nicholas...

I wish you all the best in you BD endeavour... I so wish to go that route but am to afriad... of the costs of things breaking.
Compare the savings you will be making on the BD to the possibility of failure of injectors and pumps, and possibly pistons going thru blocks due to sludge buildup etc , etc...

My buddy while living in Pretoria told me he ran his bakkie on 100% BD he made himself... triple washed it to be sure it's clean. Without any failures. So it can be done, but there is always that risk factor of expensive breakdowns

quite lengthy argument on BD... and that magical number 18 000

http://www.isuzuoffroad.co.za/showthrea ... =biodiesel

I'm just going to ask... what quality controls are there when manufacturing bio-diesel? From all the talk I've heard each producer can decide on their quality controls and output specs... based on the cost of replacing a D4D's injectors and/or engine... I'm not going to be the guinea pig on this one!

I sent many BD samples to Wear Check to be analyzed. I did not find one that had all the required additives, which are essential, in their product. If I can get a BD manufacturer with all the proper tests done and confirmed by Wear Check I will use it. The additives are expensive so most BD manufacturers do not add it, hence all the injector and engine failures.