Which gear???

[ismail]

Hi guys, bit embrassing asking asking this but I have to ask with regards to the 4x4 gears when driving in a 4y SFA.

2H normal everyday driving (front diff not engaged)
4H (and locked the front hubs) for sandy conditions.
4L (and front hubs locked) for crawling etc

Ismail

[ThysdJ]

Also remember to lock the front hubs...

Switch between 4H and 4L as required by the conditions. Do not be afraid to play around and test different gears in different conditions. It all contributes to you getting to know your vehicle and its capabilities better, which is the most important factor in getting it to perform optimally. Enjoy

[Mud Dog]

Don't be embarrased to ask ... how else will you learn, and we all have to start somewhere. :D

As a guideline I only use H4 for gravel roads where it's required and anywhere where 4x4 is needed at normal speeds. Only once I engage obstacles or really rough terrain do I use L4, mostly 2nd gear, and sometimes 1st and 3rd.

[the BuTch3R]

[quote="Kaspaas"] Also remember to lock the front hubs... [quote]

So what actually happens if you don't lock the hubs, in 4L of instance. Will it still crawl pulling on rear wheel only? will this cause damage? :shifty:

[Hoppy]

Won't do damage, you can use it like that.

H4 works best for sand

[dalkill]

form my experience on sand, 4h works the best. Normal flat sand 4h will get you thru everytime.
It's when the sand become thick, then you switch to 4L.

Some points to remember:
Momentum is your friend.

When pulling away in 4L , try to use 2nd gear. 1st is to powerful and you'll end up digging in.

When pulling away in sand, reverse a meter or so first. This allows momentum to get over the hump caused when stopping - which should never be done with the brakes if not essential. allowing the vehicle to stop by itself creates a smaller hump.

I have tried to allow the vehicle to follow the tracks by itself. Not trying to force it to follow the tracks, on a slight incline, driving along foot of a dune for example for fear to throwing over the lux. The last outing, this got me in a spot of bother, and I ended up in thick sand along the tracks, but quick reverse and 265 wranglers was soon spinning me back on track - pardon the pun.

Did I mention - Momentum is your friend.

[ThysdJ]

Few quick tips for sand:

Dont use the brakes when you stop in sand, allow the vehicle to stop by itself, then you wont have humps of sand in front of your tyres. This of course does not count for emergency stops, feel free to use the brakes then.

When stopping in sand, always try to point the nose of the vehicle downhill. Just like momentum is your friend, gravity is also way up there on the friendship stakes.

[Hoppy]

"Momentum is your friend" gaining it with a 4Y is the obstacle!

[Mud Dog]

When pulling away in 4L , try to use 2nd gear. 1st is to powerful and you'll end up digging in.

I never use L4 1st at all in sand, only obstacle crawling.

[george]

Also use 4L 1st gear on steep decents. And like Thys will say "Haak die linker voet agter die oor"

[Pietman]

Driving on sand in 4L you can go up to 4 gear 40km/h but you will feel that your vehicle work to hard and you need 6 more gears. I prefer 4H 2 & 3 gear. Your vehicle will be running smoothly and less grinding. 8 )

[the BuTch3R]

Also remember to lock the front hubs...

So what actually happens if you don't lock the hubs, in 4L of instance. Will it still crawl pulling on rear wheel only?

anyone?

[Mud Dog]

It will still crawl but you will have drive power to only one rear wheel, or if you have rear difflock, only the two rear wheels. The Xfer box will still deliver power to the front diff which will still drive the half-shafts, but no power to the front wheels themselves unless the free-wheeling hubs are engaged.
If you have'nt been anywhere where you have used 4x4 for let's say 6 months, then it used to be recommended to engage H4 without engaging the hubs, even on tar roads for about 30 kms or so. The idea was, as I understand it, to churn up the diff oil and hub grease to keep the seals lubricated and prevent the grease from stiffening up. I've never had to do this, but it does kinda make sense.

[the BuTch3R]

thanks, I sorta understand better now.

[Bfreesani]

It will still crawl but you will have drive power to only one rear wheel, or if you have rear difflock, only the two rear wheels. The Xfer box will still deliver power to the front diff which will still drive the half-shafts, but no power to the front wheels themselves unless the free-wheeling hubs are engaged.
If you have'nt been anywhere where you have used 4x4 for let's say 6 months, then it used to be recommended to engage H4 without engaging the hubs, even on tar roads for about 30 kms or so. The idea was, as I understand it, to churn up the diff oil and hub grease to keep the seals lubricated and prevent the grease from stiffening up. I've never had to do this, but it does kinda make sense.

my2c, if I may..... I am worried about engaging 4h or4l with the hubs free. What does the diff do with no resistance on a wheel, it just spins that wheel, so I think that you will probably be imitating a spinning situation and that only one of the half shafts will be turning and the other will be standing still. I prefer to lock the hubs now and again if I have not been off road for a long time. That way the wheels will be traveling at the same speed and the diff will be running normally. It just stops the drive train "connection" in the transfer case. I also do not like running the transfer case engaged at speeds over 90km/h, but that is just my personal feeling for my Nissan , sorry, did not mean to swear.

I have found the 4L very nice in some heavy traffic situations, especially on big hills where others are burning clutches, us 4x4 guys can just idle at speed no else can hope to get down to with a platkar ... Only problem is when the traffic starts moving and you are not prepared for it and you are stuck in 4L, I have never looked to see at what speed I can change back to 4H or 2H without stripping the xfer case to pieces...

[Mud Dog]

Ja David, that makes better sense to just engage the hubs to churn over the front drive-train. As you say, both half-shafts turn and the diff is under a bit of resistance.

I'm open to correction here, but I think you can change between H4 & L4 at speeds up to 6 kmph .... I prefer to come to a stop if possible .... had to smile at your idea of traffic crawling :D . Changing between H2 & H4 can be done at speeds up to 60 kmph quite easily, I have found ... can't remember what the recommendation is IRO speed, but the hubs have to be engaged and must not be done on tarrred / hard surfaces.

Oh, .... we'll forgive your outburst of swearing this time!

[Danman]

OK also my 2cw
I still have the instruction sticker on my cubby and as far as I can remember it was 8kmh. whatever 6-8 kmh it is still not advisable.
I never even tried changing from 4H to 4L whilst the vehicle is moving, my logic tells me this will break something(appart from my head against the steering wheel)
I have done 4L to 4H a few times at 1 - 5 kmh on sand(never again) it sounds like a learner driver looking for a gear
When possible as mentioned above do this when the vehicle is not moving, a friend of mine's lux doesnt want to go into and out of lowrange
unless it's moving(at a crawl). I guess either mine is stuffed or his(have been debated around a camp fire).

4l(without hubs locked) is great for inclines(and declines) like very streep driveways, parking that boat, overloaded trailer etc.

[the BuTch3R]

4l(without hubs locked) is great for inclines(and declines) like very streep driveways, parking that boat, overloaded trailer etc.

I especially asked the question with this in mind. Now and again you need an extra bit of pull or control at lower speeds and don't want to have to jump out and lock the hubs everytime, (locked hubs are also not advised on hard surfaces).

[Mud Dog]

I have done 4L to 4H a few times at 1 - 5 kmh on sand(never again) it sounds like a learner driver looking for a gear

Where your hubs locked? .... soft sand is the problem I think ... front wheels slipping against the mound therefoire not rotating at the same speed as the back. Try it on a gravel road ... remember to lock hubs in advance.

(locked hubs are also not advised on hard surfaces).

That's still OK .... the diff will take up the difference of rotation speed when turning .... just don't do it on hard surfaces and engage the Xfer!

[the BuTch3R]

(locked hubs are also not advised on hard surfaces).

That's still OK .... the diff will take up the difference of rotation speed when turning .... just don't do it on hard surfaces and engage the Xfer!

I don't understand

Let me summarise, and correct me if I'm wrong:

1) locking front hubs while in 2H on any surface (including tar) is not harmfull and is advised now and again to churn up oil and grease to keep things lubricated.

2) locking front hubs in 4H or 4L when on hard surfaces is not recommended as it could lead to damage caused by wheels turning at different speeds when cornering.

3) Engaging 4L on hard/any surfaces without locked hubs is useful for short inclines/declines, crawling in traffic, parking boats, more control, etc and will not cause damage. (effectively "2L")


Ismail, my apologies for hijacking your post, but I'm sure this is all still relevant.

[ThysdJ]

I don't understand

Let me summarise, and correct me if I'm wrong:

1) locking front hubs while in 2H on any surface (including tar) is not harmfull and is advised now and again to churn up oil and grease to keep things lubricated.

2) locking front hubs in 4H or 4L when on hard surfaces is not recommended as it could lead to damage caused by wheels turning at different speeds when cornering.

3) Engaging 4L on hard/any surfaces without locked hubs is useful for short inclines/declines, crawling in traffic, parking boats, more control, etc and will not cause damage. (effectively "2L")


Ismail, my apologies for hijacking your post, but I'm sure this is all still relevant.

correct.

[dalkill]

[quote="Noob"].....

3) Engaging 4L on hard/any surfaces without locked hubs is useful for short inclines/declines, crawling in traffic, parking boats, more control, etc and will not cause damage. (effectively "2L")


/quote]

I don't get this one though. I thought the hubs had to be locked to give that extra resistance

[Mud Dog]

.....

3) Engaging 4L on hard/any surfaces without locked hubs is useful for short inclines/declines, crawling in traffic, parking boats, more control, etc and will not cause damage. (effectively "2L")


/quote]

I don't get this one though. I thought the hubs had to be locked to give that extra resistance

Yes, don't forget this is done to churn up the lubricants and without engaging the transfer ... it therefore remains disassociated from the rear wheels and drive power.

Point 3. above refers to hubs not locked ... therefore drive power to the rear wheels only.

[Shraek]

"I don't understand

Let me summarise, and correct me if I'm wrong:

1) locking front hubs while in 2H on any surface (including tar) is not harmfull and is advised now and again to churn up oil and grease to keep things lubricated.

2) locking front hubs in 4H or 4L when on hard surfaces is not recommended as it could lead to damage caused by wheels turning at different speeds when cornering.

3) Engaging 4L on hard/any surfaces without locked hubs is useful for short inclines/declines, crawling in traffic, parking boats, more control, etc and will not cause damage. (effectively "2L")

Ismail, my apologies for hijacking your post, but I'm sure this is all still relevant."

Crawling in Traffic?? I think the guys are referring to crawling up and over obsticles like rocks and river banks etc
Just remember whenever engaging the hubs 4H or 4L that ideally the wheels need some "slip" from the surface you are driving on.
Personally the only time I generally lock the hubs are when I'm in 4L and doing some serious off roading.
You mentioned Boats, if your launching with regularity consider exending your breathers towards the front cab inside the engine compartment near the top as driving into cold water with hot axels can cause them to "suck" some water into the diff and there by ruin the gear oil viscosity which over time with shorten the life of you dif

[Bloues]

Hi to all,
Just remember when in 2x4 or 4x4 High / Low and hubs locked to make sure you do not enjoy it to much and forget about the landi you are towing out of the bush...........
:ugeek: :ugeek:
.

[wacky]

I normally lock my hubs when I do 4x4ing irrespective of surfaces changes.engange in 4wd then lock hubs.and vice-versa when done. m2cw. :D