Hilux 4x4 Forum

A question for those chaps who have pulled the roof liner or rebuilt a sfa - is it possible to install a roof handle (or passenger assist handle to be precise) on the driver's side? Does the cab possibly have the mouldings/holes in the metal hidden behind the liner? Maybe someone can post a pic of that section with the liner out please?

I know you're meant keep one hand on your cellphone whilst the other holds your beer, steer with your knee, but I can't get in, it's too high;) need a handle.

You've got the same problem as me on the last SFA ..... no sliders, so you gotta almost hop up to get your bum on the seat. The other SFA is the same height, but I don't have a problem getting into that one because the sliders act as a step.

Still in the process of making up sliders for the white one ...... almost there, just time is a problem. You got a nice welder now, so no excuses not to make up your own.

JohanM come in , Tim needs your assistance. I know you install a roof handle on the passengers side of your SFA.

Dawie, it's the drivers side .....

If there ain't any holes you can fit rivnuts, that is what I did with my IFS Hilux when I installed Prado 90 grab handles
see
viewtopic.php?f=93&t=41434&hilit=grab+handle

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Thu Jul 19, 2018 6:22 pm Dawie, it's the drivers side .....

Sorry my mistake

Chances are the holes are there, can't see Toyota using different roof cabs for LHD & RHD models.


-F_D

I had sliders Andy, from the PO days, but I chopped them off as they were structurally unsound.

Here's a recent development and cause of the problem: 50mm lift to the seat makes such a difference, probably one of the best mods so far, great visibility of all corners, I can push the pedals to the floor, fit a safe or whatnot under the seat and the rear passengers have more legroom as the seat is naturally adjusted forwards. It feels like you're sitting in a Cruiser instead of a lowrider.
Add to that the 33's and OME and future leaf pressing and the top of seat is way up there:)

I can feel there is solid bodywork metal behind the liner above the drivers door opening so rivnuts will work if no holes exist.

Now, from where to get a handle, in grey...

Try Caryota in Bellville, near Access Park or the R300/R102 intersection

Tim wrote:I had sliders Andy, from the PO days, but I chopped them off as they were structurally unsound.

Like I said, no excuse to build a replacement set, and while you're at it you can incorporate something like this ....

viewtopic.php?f=92&t=6721&p=74492&hilit ... tep#p74492

Yeah, I'm not great with side steps, I like the 'jacked up' look of a clean 'Lux - maybe that'll change with age and necessity;) Very nifty foldables you made there though!
Sliders yes, a single slim thick walled tube tucked away under there (not too far in to defeat the purpose) and bolted to the chassis (not welded, purist) will come about one day. How do you plan to attach your new sets of sliders?

I also thought of running a similar type tube around the perimeter of the rear overhang and bolted to the chassis rail ends (got forbid bobbin' my truck). Additional bevelled/curved bash plates welded to said tubes may aid in sliding along.

And then of course one of those delectable bent plate transfer cross member replacements would be great - can anyone advise from where I may attain one?

Sliders will get plates on the end of the 'legs' and will then be bolted / clamped to the chassis rail.

Tim86 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 20, 2018 2:22 pm And then of course one of those delectable bent plate transfer cross member replacements would be great - can anyone advise from where I may attain one?

What's that?

I just put wide flat bar on the ends of my sliders "legs" that come to the chassis, one piece welded to the leg and the other loose on the inside with bolts top and bottom.

Sifu Lux has one - I think Mr. Petoors sold them at one time...??
One thing that has always niggled me on sfa's is the low cross member.
Quite hard to DIY something this thick.

Tim that's a TrailGear x-member for the dual x-fer cases (the 4x4Direct sticker was put on after). It uses the same mounting points on the chassis but is set back for the 2nd x-fer case, so it wouldn't work on the standard set up. It is however possible that they make one for single x-fer boxes, one would have to look at their website. Otherwise I think that you might be able to get locally from guys like StofPad, you'll just have to surf about a bit.

Nick wrote:I just put wide flat bar on the ends of my sliders "legs" that come to the chassis, one piece welded to the leg and the other loose on the inside with bolts top and bottom.

Most common way to fit them.

Andy what thickness and type of steel is that cross-member made of?

Don't know Tim - never looked at it that closely - can't even go look at it now coz it's in the shop for cam and follower replacement (I'm getting too lazy to tackle it myself and have a lot of other things on my plate).

It looks to be about 6mm in the pic and is probably mild steel.

Eric you were correct - the threaded holes are in fact there above the driver's door (M6). Toyota still stocks the period correct grab handle for all of R49.00 if you dig deep enough into their system, albeit only in beige and without any of the screw cover fittings which I had to make myself. Now I can get in:)

BTW Tim, I had a look at that cross member. It's 8mm steel plate.

Many thanks, now you're giving me ideas:-)

There's a company I've used a few times that do excellent laser cutting and bending in whatever thickness of steel, all they want is the CAD. If you can make up a sketch, I can turn it into CAD and we can make some...

The problem will be to get the exact profile - angles of the bends and depth of the "cradle". It looks like an intricate shape. And then the mounting bolt holes must also be exact .... 8mm is not going to flex over such a short span to try line up bolt holes.

I also have to wonder if the TrailGear crawler box will have the same or similar enough shape / profile/ size as a dual transfer case setup.

That is a very kind offer by you Nic. I am of a (young) structural engineering background so also mess about with CAD and some Revit on a daily basis.
I think that a cross member for a standard transfer box setup may be even easier to make than we think as the material only needs to be straight and of a certain width, with the four bends and holes in of course. Say 200x10.0 flat bar. Drill a few oval holes and it will fit nicely.

Interesting pic off the web:
Would be better to get rid of the original thicker portions either side as they also catch a bit.

Found one:

Looks like a plan.