2.4 to 2.7i My storie

Discuss modifications on your 1979 to late 1998 SFA 4x4 Hilux here.
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Mr_B
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:19 am

Hi Castos,

My name's not Bennie, but I know the answer, you will have to hunt around at scrapyards, Bennie will know where on your side of the world. It's a dealer only part, if purchasing new, and bl$$dy expensive from Toy at that(R1000 +). I found my one at a Toyota scrapyard dealer for R 50.00, at a bargain, the guys usually ask anything from R100 to R300, depending on how generous they are feeling! The one I got came off a Camry, works perfectly. Also remember that you may have to measure the ohms at various temps(5deg to 90deg), using hot water, to calibrate the EMU against the sensor!

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Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:10 am

The industry standard is the resistance given at 25 degrees,. If the part no for the IAT sensor is 4k7 the it is 4k7 at 25 degrees, if the part no is 2k then it is 2k Ohm at 25 degrees IIRC.
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 2:16 pm

Surely once you know what the resistance at 25 degrees is you could buy a normal thermistor with the same resistance? They're cheap as chips....
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:05 pm

In what form factor are you going to house it? Then you may just as well use a water temp sensor but if it is not in the right housing it may not be accurate in detecting air temp variations.
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:33 pm

While on the subject I see the temp versus resistance curve for the Hilux intake air temp and coolant temp sensors are exactly the same but as Bennie states the housings differ. Just for interest sake it uses a negative temp coefficient thermistor, resistance gets lower as temp goes up and the reverse for colder.

Typical Values for the 2.7 Hilux below:
100 Deg C - 176 Ohm
90 Deg C - 240 Ohm
80 Deg C - 332 Ohm
70 Deg C - 458 Ohm
60 Deg C - 668 Ohm
50 Deg C - 972 Ohm
44.44 Deg C - 1182 Ohm
40 Deg C - 1458 Ohm
35 Deg C - 1800 Ohm
30 Deg C - 2238 Ohm
24.44 Deg C - 2795 Ohm
20 Deg C - 3520 Ohm
14.44 Deg C - 4450 Ohm
10 Deg C - 5670 Ohm
4.44 Deg C - 7280 Ohm
0 Deg C - 9420 Ohm

These are rcommended values there is a window for each temp range, so don't chuck out the temp probe if it doesn't give you the exact values as above.
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 7:12 pm

hmm, previously I have soldered the ends and then given it a layer or two of heat shrink. Made a small hole in the thick rubber hose to the air filter and then squeezed it through. :eh:
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:20 pm

Ok, xhaust is done. This AIT is my only problem left. How important is this sensor for the ECU? Can I run her reliabily without the sensor or is it something I need?

I was shocked to get the price for the xhaust. A @$#@$^ load of money. :shock:
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Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:34 pm

You should be able to run her without one but it is better for economy purposes to have one to adjust your AFR according to airtemp otherwise the vehicle may become lean when the airtemp is very cool and too rich when the airtemp is high. But I suggest riding her for a day or 3 before you dyno so that will leave you with some time to source one.
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:36 am

Have you tried any of the Bosch agents for AIT sensor ?

Diesel Electric Mbombela (Nelspruit)Physical27 Waterfall Avenue, Riverside Ind Park, Nelspruit 1201Telephone(013) 753-2203

Midas Nelspruit Fuel Injection & Auto ElectricalPhysical12 Samora Marchell Street, Nelspruit 1200Telephone(013) 752-4010/3
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 12:12 pm

Lyk of die Bosch sensor part no 0 280 130 092 die ding sal doen.

Hier is die specs
BoschTs.pdf
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3RZ
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 12:19 pm

Bummer, nie beskikbaar by die Bosch agente in SA nie, kan net deur die spesifiek motor vervaardiger agente gekry word :crazy: - volgens Diesel Electric in PTA.
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swifty
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 3:57 pm

I followed this thread with interest, and I believe that the end result will be good. As Eric said: You're going to experience the best of both worlds! :thumbup:

But I must say that there is a lot more to this conversion than just swopping the 2.4 motor with a 2.7. :shock:

The cost is about the same as the solid axle swop I have on my 2.7, and I must say that I prefer the 2.7 Hilux with a solid axle and coils to the solid axle Hilux with a 2.7 motor..... :mrgreen:
2003 HILUX 2.7i SRX S/C; Solid front axle conversion with Cruiser coil springs, 4.88:1 diff ratios, Iron Man rear suspension with extended greasable shackles, Gearmax diff lock, 150 liter feul tank, NudgeM bumper with recovery shackles, BF Goodridge Baja 33x10.5x15 tyres
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:05 pm

swifty wrote:
The cost is about the same as the solid axle swop I have on my 2.7, and I must say that I prefer the 2.7 Hilux with a solid axle and coils to the solid axle Hilux with a 2.7 motor..... :mrgreen:
Nooit daar sal nooit mooier Hiluxe wees as die SFA shapes nie!! Wel in my oë in elkgeval :wink:
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:14 pm

BenHur wrote: Nooit daar sal nooit mooier Hiluxe wees as die SFA shapes nie!! Wel in my oë in elkgeval :wink:
Amen! :D: :twisted: (Although the bullnose Hilux is also quite good looking...)
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swifty
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:26 pm

Amen, solank dit 'n Hilux is! :thumbup:

Daar was vroeer 'n thread oor die 1st gen Hilux en die ouens was in ekstase. So lyk my hoe ouer hoe beter? :twisted:

Ek het self 'n 2.2 besit voordat ek die 2.7 aangeskaf het, so ek het beide beproef...... :thumbup:

So verskil elke ou se smaak, ek ken selfs ouens wat dink LandRovers is die alfa en die omega.... :mrgreen:
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:49 pm

swifty wrote:
.... ek ken selfs ouens wat dink LandRovers is die alfa en die omega.... :mrgreen:
Ja, maar hulle het almal breinskade... :twisted:
1988 Hilex D/C 4x4 (Import spec), Lexus V8; Marlin Crawler; Custom Suspension: front and new 4 link in the rear; Disc Brake conversion rear; 35" Cooper STT tyres; Xenon lights; Custom bullbar;Next? Aircon; new front seats, redo the whole interior in nice soft leather, Respray, Double Lockers
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Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:35 pm

BenHur wrote:Nooit daar sal nooit mooier Hiluxe wees as die SFA shapes nie!! Wel in my oë in elkgeval :wink:
Daarmee kan ek heelhartig saam stem. Die ou shape is die mooiste 4x4 Bakkie shape ooit. Daar is net iets wat hulle so mooi maak.................Karakter.... :twisted: :twisted:
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Castos
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Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:39 am

My Storie is coming to a close.

She back in the workshop, the donaldson arifilter is being fitted, the AIT sensor s being fitted and the ECU is being fitted. The I have the boring task to pay the man and enjoy my truck for a very long time. :twisted:

I will now be able to take as many photo's from every angle you guys would want.

On the convertion side, I owned a 2.7 and sold it ( Untill today I still cannot figure out why) :oops: and I was newer able to afford one again. Bought this baby and I love her to bits, every angle, every time I start her, it feels like I'm on holiday. I call her " Lekkerkry" And for me personally, I've got the truck I always wanted.

Only 2 more things I'd love to fit, 1. A rear locker for when I'm in trouble.
2. Sway bar disconnects.
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swifty
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Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:37 am

Sway bar disconnects
Sway bars on a SFA? :?:
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Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:05 pm

Nope only Datsun Safaris came stock with Swaybars on SFA, but most guys threw it out long ago as it has no real benefit on road and a mayor disadvantage offroad, so if yours have swaybars, gooi weg its aftermarket, the SFA hilux only have a track bar upfron to keep the axle level and that should never be disconnected
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Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:10 pm

BenHur wrote:Nope only Datsun Safaris came stock with Swaybars on SFA, but most guys threw it out long ago as it has no real benefit on road and a mayor disadvantage offroad, so if yours have swaybars, gooi weg its aftermarket, the SFA hilux only have a track bar upfron to keep the axle level and that should never be disconnected
Klink of ek my naam met 'n plank sopas geslaan het. Ek dog alle SFA's moet swaybars he. Want ek sien die 4runners in US loop met swaybars. :oops:

Nice om te weet, dan kan ek vir my 'n nice bumber bou.
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Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:58 pm

Sy staan by die huis. Ons kan eers 'n aircon pyp van Toyota kry in 3weke tyd, en die rev counter werk nog nie.

EK dink volgende week is dit Dyno tyd, sy is woes ryk gestel ( Daar is baie swart rook) en die timing is ook te hoog (Idle op 1200rpm), maar allas, lyk my ek is net te stupid vir die ding opstel :oops:

Het so paar fotos geneem maar die 3G wil niks weet van upload nie sal more by die werk dit doen.

Hierdie is nou 'n ander Hilux vir my. Moet haar van vooraf leer bestuur. Krag is van heel onderaf idle deur die dorp in 3de. Die exhaust is baie mooi gedoen en ek kan skaars its hoor, net daai ligte dreun agter my.

Ek moes die viscon fan vervang vanoggend, die een op die bakkie was klaar of gelock.
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Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:02 pm

Reynard, congratulations on your "new" Hilux!

This is a conversion that I might very seriously consider one of these days so I've been following this post with a lot of interest, as I'm sure Rich and some others have too. Please do post photos when you get the chance.


-F_D
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Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:32 pm

Family_Dog wrote:Reynard, congratulations on your "new" Hilux!

This is a conversion that I might very seriously consider one of these days so I've been following this post with a lot of interest, as I'm sure Rich and some others have too. Please do post photos when you get the chance.


-F_D
Yep, I agree 100% with Eric, you're a very lucky fella, thanks so much for sharing your conversion story with us; the finished photos will be the "icing on the cake"
:thumbup:
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:31 am

As promised,
Attachments
IMG_2577 (Small).JPG
IMG_2568 (Small).JPG
The Engine Mounting
IMG_2565 (Small).JPG
IMG_2564 (Small).JPG
IMG_2563 (Small).JPG
IMG_2562 (Small).JPG
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:28 pm

Cool

Reinhard

Het jou voertuig 'n snorkel? Insien niue consider om die posisie van die aircleaner en die battery te swaai. My 7M se pyp was ook so lank en hoe meer ek met die EFIs speel hoe meer kom ek agter hoe korter die pyp hoe minder die heatsoak. Ek wil ook nog kyk na iets anders op my wa. Intussen ruil daai 2 rubber elbows om en kry die airtemp sensor nader aan die throttle, hoe nader hoe beter en dit moet jy sommer doen voor jy dyno want dit kan jou air temp conpensastion beïnvloed.

Dan nog 'n truuk is om ou safety beld te kry en om jou engine mounting te draai en saam met die mounting vas te bout sodat die belt keer dat die runner te ver rek en skeur.

Ek het my AC pype laat custom bou by 'n plek en hom sommer ge-convert na die nuwe tiepe gas toe ook (hulle moet onder andere 'n ander valve bysit om hom vol te maak.) Dan kan jy ook oorweeg om die kondesnor na onder die passasier se sitplek te sit om hitte issues te vermy en 'n effe groter generiese aftermarket condensor kan jou stelsel baie meer effektief laat koud maak.

Anders lyk dinge heel goed, geniet haar.
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:33 pm

Reynard, very neat!

I'm just wondering if the air-intake is not restricted in any way with all those bends? Also, does the fact that the pipe runs behind the radiator not lead to a hotter than normal airflow to the engine? Would it not be better to relocate the Donaldson filter to the driver side of the engine (where the battery is) and move the battery to where the filter currently is?

More importantly is the fact that you're happy with it and it was really a worthwhile modification!


-F_D
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Bull Dog: 1987 4Y-EFI 2.2 DC 4x4
Pra Dog: 1998 Prado VX 3.4
Hound Dog: 2000 2.7i SC 4x4


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Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:40 pm

What say you about power increase and driveability Reynard :?: :?:
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:34 pm

Bennie, thanks for the advice, daai rubber bend is blerrie DUUR, R350 each. :wth: Ek sal die AIT sensor skuif as ek haar terug vat vir die aircon. Ons gaan nog die pype verander dalk op die intake kant, mooi swart verf ens. Die pype is 64mm, so dis net die temp wat ek dink sal regtig pla. As ek nie 'n snorkel gehaat het nie, sou ek alles omgeruil het.
My vrou het so klein tantrum gegooi toe sy ons hart vang werk aan die trok met 'n polisie koffie in die hand, toe is almal bang vir haar en maak gougou klaar.

Die airintake soos dit nou is, moet maar so werk ( Die Mech wou alles omruil), ek moet deur die snorkel suig, ek ry te veel stof en water hier in die laeveld. Al die pype is klaar op gemaak, ons wag net vir 'n coupling op die pomp self. Ek moet se, sy loop baie koeler as die 22R op temp. Wat ek van hou is, Pietman se 2.7 vat langer om te start as my trok. Ek kyk vir die sleutel dan loop sy. Het ook klaar met 'n taxi gespeel.

Op driveablity, WOW, sy is still, geen bler nie en ook geen 2.7 whine nie. Net so stille dreun van agteraf. Haar drivabilty kan nie vergelyk word nie en krag is amazing ( 80km/h in 2de en 130km/h in 3rde). Ek loop lelike opdraendes uit in 4de waar ek dit in 2de moes doen.

Ek dink na die Dyno, gaan ek speachless wees. 8 )

Ek is die naweek in swaziland vir 'n naweek se 4x4, so ek kan nie meer wag nie.
All I can say is, worth every sent!!!!
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Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:45 am

Reynard

Ek het so gedink (die snorkel) so jy kan nie regtig die pype beter route nie. Ek het destyds myne agter die engine omgevat, maar daar soak hy erg want die hitte styg op tot daar . Wat ek sal voorstel is kyk of jy die radiator cowl moet verlang sodat lug onderdeur die pyp waai en dan moet jy daai pype isoleer. Try daai isolasie soos op hierdie blad

http://www.quartermile.co.za/info/produ ... rriers.htm

Ons het van daai tape op Cassie se intake pyp gedraai en kon 'n 10 grade verskil onmiddelik opmerk teen idling wat nogal baie is. Persoonlik dink ek die velle sal makliker werk as die tape maar Cassie het dit nie raakgesien nie toe koop hy die tape.


Ja ek weet daai bends is heng duur. Maar wat sal mens maak. Eric mag dalk reg wees as die ID van daai pype 64mm is mag dit goed werk vir torque onder, maar dit mag jou lugvloei dalk smoor teen full throttle. As ek reg kon onthou het Willem (3RZ) gesê hy is opsoek na 70mm silikon pyp vir sy wa.
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Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:05 pm

Ek moet se, die low down torque is amazing. Ek sal so bietjie kyk na die heat shields. Ek wil haar nou eers gedyno kry. Sy is swaar op sous en rook erg.
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Dadz Toy BFI

Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:18 pm

Castos wrote:Ek moet se, die low down torque is amazing. Ek sal so bietjie kyk na die heat shields. Ek wil haar nou eers gedyno kry. Sy is swaar op sous en rook erg.
With that choice you're gonna have to really enjoy the Torque and throttle response cos you won't be getting;

noisy tappets, oily sump or overheating issues that seem to plague some of the more popular conversions :wink:

Enjoy Reynard, you lucky fella :wink:
Last edited by Dadz Toy BFI on Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:30 pm

Ai Rich you must not be so negative man.

Reynard

Maak net seker jy kyk teen water air temp die dyno gedoen word sodat jy weet in die toekoms waneer jy dalk aan die air temp compensation verander op watter temp die dyno gedoen was aangesien dit veronderstel is om die punt te wees waar die air temp compensasion ge-zero te wees Vir waardes laer as die dyno airtemp moet jy + kompenseer en waardes laer moet - gekompenseer word.
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:57 am

Sy is klaar met haar eeste dyno, sy loop soos 'n droom. Die petrol is baie beter maar ons het nog werk om te doen op die dyno. Sy skop so 80kw en 178nm op die wiele uit. Bennie, ek verloor nogal krag bo met die airintake pype wat so geroute is, kan dit mooi sien op die dyno. Maar haar lowdown torque is ongelooflik, van 1200rpm, het sy 125nm en loop teen 2000rpm teen vol 178nm. :thumbup:

Ek weet nie of dit 'n verskil maak nie, maar hy doen die dyno in 4de rat. Die ander ouens wat ek gesien het in die verlede, was in 3rd gedoen.

O, ja. Voor ek vergeet, het gister 'n Cruiser 4.5 efi gesien met 'n supercharger op. 210Kw en 583nm op die wiele. :twisted: :clap:
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:07 am

Party ouens doen die dyno in derde rat party in vierde rat. Derde rat is makliker teen lae revolusies. Die syfers vir die grafiek word gewoontlik in vierde rat gedoen aangesien vierde rat gewoontlik 'n 1:1 of naaste aan 'n 1:1 verhouding is. Die krag uitset sal dieselfde wees in al die ratte maar die wringkrag sal verskil aangesien die ratkas 'n torque multiplier is in die eerste vier ratte. Die wringkrag sal hoogste wees in eerste rat, vierde sal naaste aan engine wringkrag wees (minus drivetrain losses), vyfde rat sal die wringkrag op sy laagste wees.

80KW op die wiele is baie goed vir 'n standaard engine. Jy het nie dalk 'n print-out van die dyno nie ?
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:14 am

Ongelukkig nie, sy printer is muerte en my usb is missing. :thumbdown: Het my pap gelag, die man maak sy file cabinet oop en haal 8 laptops uit om die Spitronics te stel. As die ding pla gooi hy hom in die laai en koop 'n nuwe een.

Ek sal sy printer vir hom gaan reg maak volgende week en alles mooi print en download. Soos hy se, ons gaan nog 'n ruk besig wees op die dyno om haar mooi reg te kry. So ek sal dit nog kry.
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:44 pm

This has been a very interesting topic for me as I am busy with the same modification, well actually a toyota mechanic in Ermelo is doing it for me. We've got to the stage where we are about to replace the Toyota ECU with a Dicktator because the Toyota analyser is throwing up errors on the ECU and the bakie will start but not run.
Thanks for all the knowledge and wisdom I'm learning a lot.
I will post pictures of the conversion when I ge the bakkie back.
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:47 pm

hilux hilife wrote:This has been a very interesting topic for me as I am busy with the same modification, well actually a toyota mechanic in Ermelo is doing it for me. We've got to the stage where we are about to replace the Toyota ECU with a Dicktator because the Toyota analyser is throwing up errors on the ECU and the bakie will start but not run.
Thanks for all the knowledge and wisdom I'm learning a lot.
I will post pictures of the conversion when I ge the bakkie back.
Cool man, Only real issue on my ECU was the overfeuling, timing was set 100%. Please let me know if and how to get the ref counter working.
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:19 pm

Reynard

Ek weet nie of dit jou ou is nie maar iemand van Nelspruit wat Spittronics doen gaan glo deurkom Pretoria toe om by Schalk te leer om die Spittronics beter te map op 'n dyno.

Omtrent die Dyno ratte, Schalk dyno ook in 3rde simply omdat in 4de die wielspoed hoër is so dis net gevaarliker dis die enigste rede. Maar as hy wel viertuie moet map met groot wiele soos 'n trok met 33s op map hy gewoonlik die onder 1500 rpm goete in 4de omdat die die wielspod in 3de te stadig is vir die dyno om te kan briek of torgue lesings te vat. Schalk neem sy lesings ook altyd in 3de en ek en hy hat al gespeel deur 'n stel lesings in 3de en 4de te vat en die verskille raak gewoonlik eers noemenswaardig teen 5000RPM.

80kw/0.75 = 107 Horse Power op die wiele wat glad nie so sleg is in 4de nie. Watse wiel size is op jou wa? O ja hoekom werk jou rev counter nie?
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Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:48 am

Maybe this will help, don't know if your tach is the same as the 22R's.

From the Marlincrawler forum

"Just wanted to add that I was having some major problems getting teh factory tach to work with a twin-coil 2000 3rz. what I ended up doing was using a 10K Ohm 1/4 watt resistor mod that most of the 5vz-fe swap guys have to do to get their tachs to work. Anywys it worked like a champ for the 3rz!!!"

Heres the location on my 2wd 85 22RTE second gen tach.
tach.jpg
tach.jpg (51.27 KiB) Viewed 2660 times
Here is the thread with all the detail for the tach conversion.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23540.0

It was also in the link I sent you - The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=19275.0
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Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:25 am

Bennie, my Mech het nie 'n dyno nie. Hoor by Schalk of dit dalk Braam is. Dis die man wat my trok gedyno het. Was sy eerste keer met 'n Spitronics. Hy het my nie eers gemaak betaal nie. Betaal hom as ons altwee happy nie. Ek loop 31''. :angel:

Wat nogal interresant is, die 3RZ whine was weg voor die dyno en nou dat sy so bietjie leaner loop, is daai kenmerkende whine weer terug. :think:

Wat 3RZ wys, is die rede hoekom sy nie werk nie. Die signal van die Coils of van die Spitronics is te laag vir my Tach om te lees. Sal volgende week daarna kyk.

Ek sal Maandag almal kan laat weet hoe sy loop, ek is gelaai en staan op omtrent 900kg in die bak. En daarmee gaan ons 4x4 en so 500km ry. :twisted: :twisted:
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Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:15 pm

Reynard

Try die mod. As ek reg onthou is die Spittronics se ignitor ingebou maar die rev counter draad behoort dieselfde te wees as die pin1 op 'n multichannel TP100 wat normaalweg die rev counter output is in wasted spark setups. Jy gebruik die coil van 'n normale relay sommer wat se bewegende dele jy verwysder het om die signal te boost.
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 7:53 am

Thanks Bennie, ek gaan so bietjie daarna kyk.

Hier is my eerste report oor die conversion, sy loop soos 'n droom. Ek was swaar gelaai met alles wat nodig is vir 'n naweek se kamp, het 'n paar berg passe aan gevat en met 70km se 4x4 ry het ek so 5km/l gekry. Sy loop teen 120km/h (Volgens GPS) soos 'n droom en die motor is sag, kan haar nie eers hoor nie. Saterdag was woes warm met die temp by 35C en ek het die viscus net 'n paar keer gehoor, so sy loop mooi met die ou radiator.

Offraod is sy nou 'n ander beast, ek het die hele dag geidle en sy ry baie soos 'n diesel in 4L. Het 'n paar plekke in 4H deur gery waar ek sou sukkel in 2de 4L met die 22R

Die cherrie op die koek, was toe my vrou my inlig sy dink die conversion was elke sent werd. :clap: :thumbup:

4 dinge om nog uit te sort, Aircon pyp moet in (wag vir Toyota), rev counter will ek die week uitsort (Dankie Bennie en 3RZ), olie sensor is nie lekker nie, hy fikker die hele tyd op die instrument cluster en dit lyk of die choke agterste voor werk, as sy koud is idle sy mooi laag en as sy op temp is, dan idle sy hoog soos wanneer die choke moet werk. Is dit iets wat ek moet stel op die ECU of is daar 'n vacuum pyp wat verkeerd gekoppel is?

Laaste, vir die wat kyk na die conversion, maak toe die oggies en go for it!!! Elke sent werd.
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:04 pm

Maar ons kan nou nie n 3RZ vir R3500 agter elke bos uitskop nie, ne. :D:
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:05 pm

ToyX4 wrote:Maar ons kan nou nie n 3RZ vir R3500 agter elke bos uitskop nie, ne. :D:
Net jammer dis nie wat die groot bedrag was nie. :crazy:
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:09 pm

Maar jy het immers n groot bedrag gespaar met daai bargain.
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Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:08 am

Castos wrote:Laaste, vir die wat kyk na die conversion, maak toe die oggies en go for it!!! Elke sent werd.
Reynard, wil jy nie as alles klaar is so bietjie vir ons `n break down doen van die kostes nie. Ek is seker daar is heelwat wat die ombouing wil doen op hulle SFA's.... :thumbup: :D
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:29 am

Ek maak so.

Het alles op 'n excel sheet.
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:07 am

Castos wrote:Ek maak so.

Het alles op 'n excel sheet.
A very useful reference :P
Thanks for posting :thumbup:
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Sun May 01, 2016 4:40 pm

Haloo da ek is nuut hier. Het deur jou hele ombouing gegaan. Ek het n S/C 92 hilux met n 3CT in op di oomblik. Ek wil graag d 3rz in sit aangesien parte vir di 3ct baie skaars is. Weet iemand dalk wa ek n goeie engine teen n billike prys kan kry. Het kla met Spitronics gepraat en hul sal my help met bedrading. Okek is van Odn en hul fabriekis in George
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Mon May 02, 2016 8:33 pm

Hello Christo

Welkom by die forum

Die is n baie ou thread wat jy nou laat herleef. :) Ek sien Castos, wat die ombouing gedoen het, was drie jaar laas aktief op die forum.


Hou moed. Hier is wel baie manne op die forum wat nog ombouinge doen. Seker jy sal goeie raad kry hier.
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Fri May 06, 2016 4:05 pm

Dankie man ek sal graag wil weet hu gaan dit nu nog met sy ombouing en wat is sy brandstof verbruik
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Fri May 06, 2016 4:39 pm

Christo,

Hoekom kyk jy nie eerder na die 2.5 Ford enjin nie?

Baie bekostigbare ombouing, genoeg krag en goeie brandstof verbruik?

Die 2.7 gaan jou sak roer - die ombouing en brandstof verbruik.
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Fri May 06, 2016 5:49 pm

Dankie sal kyk daarna. Gaan mut diffs verander. My huidige diff ratio is te hoog vir die diesel. Het nu n 3ct in wat taamlik hoog rev. En die gaan uit revs uit hi op 130kmh. Diesel wil ni so lank so hoog rev ni. Het omtrent 140 000km met dit gedun teen gemiddeld 10km/l. Hul parte is te skaars so ek is opsoek na n plaasvervanger vir di 3ct. Op di oomblik lyk die 3rz na my beste opsie. Dis moeilik om teen 90-100 km/h aan te ploeter.
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Fri May 06, 2016 6:50 pm

dan wil jy nie 2,7 gaan nie ....

Lekker motor, MAAR as jy verby 120 gaan raak hy maar lekker dors ....


maar redelik baie werk om 15km/h vinniger te kan ry.
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Sat May 07, 2016 12:55 pm

Stem saam, die 3RZ sal definitief jou "sak roer" soos Thabo gesê het. Al is dit nie Toyota nie, is die Ford 2.5 WL enjin baie beter opsie - genoeg krag en baie goeie brandstof verbruik. Die ombouding sal ook makliker wees (en dus bietjie goedkoper) omdat jy klaar diesel ry.

Pleks van diff verander kan jy miskien bietjie grooter bande opsit - op SFA - 31" sonder enige modifikasies, as jy klaar suspensie verhoog het kan jy 32" opsit en daarna met die voorste as 35mm voorentoe geskuif kan jy 33" opsit.
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Sun May 08, 2016 9:56 am

Dnki vi di advies ek waardeer dit. Weet jul van iemand wat dit al gedoen het. Wat is brandstof verbruik met di ford engine
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