KZ-TE "Engine-light" that lights up every now and then

Dannyd · Post by **Dannyd** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 8:32 am

Howdy

Could anyone help me with this "Engine-light" that lights up every now and then when I take my foot off pedal or slowing down to a robot.

The previous owner said the vehicle was serviced by his personal mechanic and the "engine -light" needs to be reset

Regards
Daniel

Ps. could not load photo..........the engine light with now righting inside at the bottom line at clock..

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:03 pm

Had the same, changed the diesel filter and all was sorted!

Dannyd · Post by **Dannyd** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:19 pm

Thanks Thabo Grobler

Going to replace it tonight......and new oil (Delo 400), new Air filter and oil filter.

Let you know if it's sorted.

Regards
Daniel

SKRIK NIKS · Post by **SKRIK NIKS** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:24 pm

i had the same on my kz-te

the diesel filter is the problem

Dannyd · Post by **Dannyd** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:54 pm

Sorry took so long to reply.......hectic at work ;-(

Serviced her this weekend, Diesel filter, Oil filter, Air filter and Delo 400 oil

She sound noticeably quieter but the light still comes on every now and then.

Look at pic of dash.

Regards
Daniel

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:41 pm

Stealer time!

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 8:28 pm

Is it not possible theres a loose wire or faulty sensor, like the oil pressure sensor?? The pic is not 100% clear... are u sure it's the engine light and not possibly a transmission warning light?

Post by **Family_Dog** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:46 pm

That's the engine light, mr. b.

-F_D

kraken · Post by **kraken** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:06 pm

Yeah, I have the same situation on my KZTE under the exact same circumstances as described.
Toyota hooked it up to the computer and its picking up the error code for the crankshaft position sensor.
According to them(for whatever thats worth!), its more than likely the sensor which is faulty and needs replacing which, not surprisingly, is not cheap!
Mines been doing this for the last 15000km's or so and seems only to do it during the day and on certain stretches of road. Weird if you ask me!
I'll have it replaced next service and see what happens.

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:28 pm

I have exactly the same issue, I find it only comes on when driving in Traffic.

Turn the car off and on and it goes away until it feels like showing up again! I will try replace the Diesel Filter on Monday when she goes to Ferroli for a Service!

Bruce

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:22 pm

Hi

I'm not sure if we're in the same boat, but here's my bit: the engin light also comes on and off on the bakkie and this is with all filters recently replaced, less than 1500km. But with the light doing as it pleases there's also a faint knocking noise from the engin bay, I have no idea exactly where is it coming from. I took it in to a dealer closeby for an opinion, if it's worht anything. The adviser reckons the injectors are on their way out. How do I know for sure if this is the case? Nonethelesss I have booked it in for repairs for Monday at Pta North Toyota since that's where I bought it from and they still gave me a repair warranty.

Will feedback on any new findings.

Regards,
Tumelo (Donkey)

redhummer · Post by **redhummer** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:25 pm

Daniel..If you bridge out TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic plug on the engine it will flash a code to you via the engine light. Ill place a pic as an example... Give me the code it gives you and ill tell you what the ecu is picking up for the light to come on..If you switch it of and back on again with the problem gone then the light will stay off. It will stay in memory till the battery is disconected but will not cause the light to come on again if it has been repaired..

redhummer · Post by **redhummer** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:47 pm

: toyota_dtcs.gif (8.41 KiB) Viewed 24813 times

Ok bridge these two terminals... Once you have done that it will flash a code.. The code is read as such... 31 = three flashes, each ,5 sec then a break for 1.5 sec. then one ,5 sec flash, then 2.5 sec then the next code. Count them carefully and let me know. I will try help if you dont come right..

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:25 am

Im going to try this on the weekend, hope you can help me too!

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:09 am

Mike... where's the diagnostics plug on the 4Y... i can;t seem to locate it??

redhummer · Post by **redhummer** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:18 am

Lol..No luck there.. 4Y is a wounderfully reliable engine that loves the use of vacume hoses

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:30 am

Those vac hoses gave me endless hassles... helped me switch over to EFi... one vac pipe... what a relief!

mr b

redhummer · Post by **redhummer** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:40 am

I had exactly the same problem when I had mine. I was just never sure if it was all working properly.. I personally think it was a bit of a mistake on Toyota's part by trying to control things that way. Now they have the right method by using electric solenoids to control vacuum and pressure flow. The 4Y had a ridiculous amount of tubes,, One could almost say,, Search the tubes and you might find the motor..lol

redhummer · Post by **redhummer** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:52 am

Here is the example on how to read the code given via the engine light..

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:11 am

Any Updates guyes, I have not been able to do this, but now my light comes on more and more when driving is traffic etc..

JBurger · Post by **JBurger** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:03 am

When I saw this thread, I was reminded of the time I had the SAC + chip mod. I started having this problem on the over run. I eventually took the vehicle back to Steve's on Koeberg weg and they fixed it in a flash. When I look at your profile, it seems you have the SAC + chip conversion too. May want to give them a visit..

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:44 am

Thanks J, can you explain alittle more about the Over Run, yes I have a chip and Intercooler by them (was installed before I purchased the bakkie) SAC are not my favourites, but ill give them a call!

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:07 am

Called Steves, the want to run Diagnotics (R470) then will let me know what is the issues...

Taking it back to Ferroli's hoping they can pick it up, (cheaper and better)

Bruce

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:00 am

Bruce I detect a slight hint of bias??

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:32 pm

haha, ;) not Bias.. FACT!

JBurger · Post by **JBurger** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:41 pm

JaMMeX wrote:Thanks J, can you explain alittle more about the Over Run, yes I have a chip and Intercooler by them (was installed before I purchased the bakkie) SAC are not my favourites, but ill give them a call!

over run - coasting in gear towards red traffic light etc, slowing down using engine compression.. Taking foot off accelerator and vehicle slows down against engine back pressure.. Not sure about my terminology but I think it should be clear.

Cheers!

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:08 am

Thanks so much boet!

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:52 pm

Some feedback -

Light hardly comes on these days now... which is great - must be that over run setting... and all this since i took my lux up to Arniston and gave it a good burn!

Could it have been Carbon Build Up issue?

Interesting ....... hey?

4x4Maniac · Post by **4x4Maniac** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 4:24 pm

Hi All,

I have a similar issue, recently had the head replaced but no overheating problems, so dont think this is still an issue. Did the flash codes excercise as described above and worked out to code 12 Crankshaft position sensor. I also have a IC + chip and have made a booking early jan 2012 but sommer a re-map of the chip, I believe that if you had redone the injectors it is advisable to check the mapping. I'll at the same time ask them about the sensor and engine light coming on during over run. Oh I have also heard from a friend that once the sensor goes on it goes into a failsafe mode that do not use the optimum mapped value's I guess this is when the solenoid should open for the diesel pump?

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:32 pm

Please keep us posted bud!!! Thanks!!!

4x4Maniac · Post by **4x4Maniac** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:03 pm

Took it to SAC for a dyno and can honstly say I havent had this issue again... holding thumbs

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:36 pm

Keep us posted please!!!! Thanks!!!

4x4Maniac · Post by **4x4Maniac** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:10 pm

Seems like this issue has popped up again...

I got an OBDII tool, but not showing any errors on there. If I connect the terminals with the flash, then it gives me code 12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor again. And the issue is the same as before on the overrun. However now it's coming on consistently.

4x4Maniac · Post by **4x4Maniac** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:15 pm

Here is how to get to read the fault codes:

How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

The ability to self diagnose and store faults as an extractable code is a great feature of modern engine management systems.

It assists us to trouble shoot what is an increasingly complex system and is especially handy for finding the cause of those intermittent problems that would otherwise drive us insane trying to find.

Despite the 1kz-te being an old school technology engine its engine management is relatively sophisticated (It can be thought of as single point electronic fuel injection)

The codes stored in the ECU can be easily extracted at home and are displayed via the engine check light on the instrument cluster.

The codes can be read by shorting out pin 4 and 13 on the (16 pin) DLC3 connector located under the fuse box on the driver’s side of the dash.

A short piece of wire can be used to short the pins (tin the ends with solder and keep it in your tool kit)

Steps:

1) Make sure the ignition is OFF, throttle closed, Aircon OFF and if it’s automatic have it in P.
2) Turn the ignition ON but don’t crank or start the engine.
3) Put the jumper wire across the connector pins. (pin 4 and pin 13)
4) Read codes displayed via the engine check light.
5) Disconnect the wire when finished extracting codes and turn the ignition off.

Reading Codes:

Codes are read by the flashing of the “Check Engine” light on the instrument cluster.

If there are no codes held in the ECU then the light will have a continuous flash, on for ¼ second, off for ¼ second.

All the codes are two digit numbers. The first flash is 4.5 seconds from when you short the pins. It stays on for ½ a second then off for ½ a second. Then the first digit of the code will flash, followed by a 1.5 second pause then the second digit will flash.

Example:

4x flashes…. 1.5 second pause…2x flashes. Would be code 42.

If there is only one code the there will be a 4.5 second pause before the code will be repeated.

If more codes are present the codes the pause between codes will be 2.5 seconds.

To clear the codes from the memory of the ECU remove the fuse labeled “ECD” from the fuse box in the engine bay. Leave it out for 60 seconds.
(Don’t clear the memory by removing the battery or you will have to reset the clock, radio and windows)

Codes and what sensor/circuit it relates too:

1KZ-TE diagnostic codes:

12 = No RPM signal during cranking.
13 = No RPM signal after cranking and engine reaches 680rpm+
14 = Timing control signal (crankshaft angle 7 deg or more out from target)
15 = Throttle control motor (no signal)
16 = Auto trans control signal
18 = Spill control valve (no signal)
19 = Accel pedal position sensor (no signal)
22 = Coolant temp sensor
24 = Intake air temp sensor.
32 = Correction resistor signal.
33 = Intake constrictor control signal.
35 = Boost pressure sensor.
39 = Fuel temp sensor.
41 = Throttle position sensor.
42 = Vehicle speed sensor.
43 = Starter signal to ECU.
51 = Switch control system
96 = EGR valve lift sensor.
99 = Engine immobilizer.

D4D diagnostic codes:

Extracting ECU trouble codes from D4D powered Prado’s via the engine check light uses exactly the same method as shown for the 1KZ-TE above.

Those of you with a Scan Gauge or similar OBD reader will get codes displayed on the screen of the unit. These codes are in a slightly different format (letter “P” followed by a four digit number).

D4D engine management fault codes:

The first code is that shown via an OBD reader, the second code shown (in brackets) is shown via the engine check light.

P0045 (34) - Boost control solenoid circuit malfunction

P0087 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor or rail pressure too low.

P0088 (49) - Fuel rail pressure too high.

P0093 (78) - Fuel system leak (Large leak)

P0095 (23) - Intake air temperature sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

P0097 (23) - Intake air temp circuit low input.

P0098 (23) - Intake temperature sensor circuit high input.

P0100 (31) - Mass air flow meter or circuit (open/short/failure)

P0102 (31) - Air flow meter circuit low input.

P0103 (31) - Air flow meter circuit high input.

P0105 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit (short/open/failure)

P0107 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit low input.

P0108 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit high input.

P0110 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit (open/short/failure)

P0112 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit low input

P0113 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit high input.

P0115 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit (open/short/failure).

P0117 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit low input.

P0118 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit high input.

P0168 (39) - Fuel temperature too high.

P0180 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” (open/short/failure)

P0182 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” low input.

P0183 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” high input.

P0190 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

P0191 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit performance/range

P0192 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit input low.

P0193 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input.

P0200 (97) - Injector circuit (open/short/failure)

P0234 (34) - Turbo over boost condition.

P0299 (34) - Turbo under boost condition.

P0335 (12,13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” (open/short/failure).

P0339 (13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” intermittent fault.

P0340 (12) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” no signal after cranking.

P0400 (71) - EGR position sensor (valve out of position)

P0405 (96) - EGR position sensor low input.

P0406 (96) - EGR position sensor high input.

P0488 (15) - EGR throttle position sensor/motor/circuit fault.

P0500 (42) - Vehicle speed sensor “A” (open/short/failure)

P0504 (51) - Brake switch.

P0607 (89) - Control module fault (ECM internal fault)

P0627 (78) - Fuel pump control circuit (open/short/failure)

P1229 (78) - Fuel pump fail.

P1251 (34) - Turbocharger stepper motor circuit (intermittent fault)

P1271 - Fuel regulator circuit malfunction. (open/short/failure)

P1272 - Fuel pressure regulator malfunction (simultaneously with P1271)

P1601 (89) - Injector correction circuit (E-prom)

P1611 (17) - ECM run pulse.

P2008 (58) - Intake manifold runner control circuit (open/short/failure)

P2120 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” (open/short/fail)

P2121 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” (range/performance)

P2122 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” low input.

P2123 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” input high.

P2125 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” (open/short/fail)

P2127 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” low input.

P2128 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” high input.

P2138 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” and “E” voltage correlation.

P2226 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit.

P2228 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit low input.

P2229 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit high input.

U0001 (102) - ECM open or short.

B2799 (99) - Engine immobilizer malfunction.

Die$eL · Post by **Die$eL** » Thu Aug 08, 2013 2:59 pm

I may be way off here but here is my 2c based on a petrol scenario:

The engine light coming on can mean a lot of things. Having it flash as far as i know is due to knock.
Makes sense, if the fuel filter is blocked, it will not supply sufficient fuel to cool the cylinders, resulting in knock

You say u have an aftermarket chip? Try removing it and running straight off the standard ecu and see if you still have the issue. Will save you the >R400 diagnostic fee they want to charge you.

4x4Maniac · Post by **4x4Maniac** » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:49 pm

Thanks, worth trying...don't think it's fuel starvation due to clogged filter, as its only a couple months old. But maybe I should get the pump checked out

JaMMeX · Post by **JaMMeX** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:45 am

I was told its a Over Run issues with the Dastec Chip that can be disabled , mine still only comes on when driving in traffic for a bit, but on the open roads never comes on.

I need to plug mine in again when next at Ferroli to see!

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:37 pm

Reviving this old thread!

Got the engine light going on every so often. One day while on I pulled in at a mate that has the right equipment and he scanned it.

Turn out the broken speedo cable is the problem - no speed signal detected!

brian_fd3s · Post by **brian_fd3s** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:09 am

Having a simular issue with my surf so thought I would post here so see if anyone has anymore ideas. I have a 93 with a kzte which is all stock. Some drives I take the cel won't come on but sometimes it comes on constantly during acceleration. Power gets cut when the light comes on and will go away once intake my foot off the throttle for 5 seconds. Cel comes up with code 14 which is crank position sensor/ low fuel pressure/ ecu. I have checked all sensors on the pump and the filters, changed fuel filter, blew back through fuel line, changed fuel fikter, checked pump timing mark. I can't for the life of me find the crank position sensor though. Can anyone help me locate this and give me any other ideas to check?