Hooks : I was thinking of that but could not find an example of something I could build myself so wanted to get a few ideas. Where would be a good idea to mount them etc. Permanent preferably.
The thing about permanent hooks is that they should be placed in such a way as not to stand proud and hook up on every low hanging branch, as well as not to protrude into the load space and interfere with the load. On my work bakkie rack I mounted the hooks underneath and facing inwards. That's worked well for me over many years and the rack is now on it's second vehicle. (If it's not clear to you what I mean and you require a pic, let me know and I'll post one.)
Gas bottle & Jerry cans : I wanted to see an example to build myself. I am not sure of what they look like. Was waiting for OUPA OOOOMS to come back from his holiday to get a few tips but anyone who can assist would be greatly appreciated.
Seeing as you have the option to do this for yourself, make it using a template for the mounting bolts so that you can mount the jerry-can holder/s in any position set aside on the rack and in either the 'flat' position as well as the 'on edge' position .... the template should be used on the gas bottle holder as well. That way you can fit them where and how is best suited for a particular loading, and can be removed when not in use.
Rearward facing spot : MMMMMM, now that is something I did not think of.

What would you suggest?
I have always fitted rear facing spots / floods to my 4x4, even the previous one, and always with an internal switch on the dash with an LED in the switch or toggle so that you can see immediately if it's on (once was enough to forget to switch it off causing the battery to run flat quickly ..... spots are hungry energy users). The idea is very handy for a good number of reasons ....... with a raised vehicle plus canopy, rear vision is impaired and at night it's worse, so with a flick of a switch I have light that's far better than the hopeless reverse lights. Also, if you're camping, working and need some light at the back for a while, the spots are great. And then the part I really love, is when you have some a-hole driving behind you at night with his brights on, a 2 second burst is normally all it takes for him / her to dip their lights

. Also useful as a 'thank you' / greeting to someone behind you instead of using the hazards. A simple flat bracket welded on each end with a mounting hole in each should do fine .... try as best you can to position them in such a way that they enjoy some protection and are not likely to snag on branches etc.
The Idea of the powder coating came from a friend of mine on the community forum who built his allucab frame out of steel and powder coated that for under R250 and it looked good. I want to use something to try and hide some of the flaws in the welding. What other options are there that would suite my requirements?
Powder coating will not fully hide the flaws and neither will galvanising, but both are ' thick' coatings and one will do as good a job of it as the other. Powder coating definitely has it's uses where it can be a serviceable option, but when it comes to applications where it will be subjected to flexing, knocks and abrasion, it's just not up to the task. Neither is the best quality paint, but as mentioned, paint is the easiest thing in the world to touch-up. It would also be possible to 'fix' some of your welding flaws with some body putty / spot putty prior to painting. Spray painting should give you a nice finish as well. Coating alone is not ideal, and that's why I suggested the galvanising .... even if it scratches, chips or wears through where a loaded item has been rubbing / vibrating, no rust will start.
