1.3 Tazz motor recon in Jhb?

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 2:07 pm

So the old lady (Tazz, not Swambo

) needs a recon.
Motor starting to use a bit of oil, but main issue is white smoke, no longer just at startup, and a lekker rich hot oil/fuel smell.
She's given us 200k kms trouble free, and if a good recon of the motor will give us the same again, then surely that makes sense rather than growing itches for new cars.
She's got new alternator, bearings, shocks, cv's (in&out), tyres all round, so a fresh lease of life for the motor would make her almost as young and new as Cher.

Question time:

Who in JHB west could do a decent job?
What could I reasonably expect to pay?
For a decent job, not just quick fix "slap on some new rings", what all should be replaced / skimmed / bored / fondled and rubbed?
Being a bit dof with these things, I do at least want to SOUND as if I have a clue when I talk to the man with the greasy hands.

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 2:09 pm

Urg!
I do actually know it's 1300.
The 1200 was a typo.

Tarquin · Post by **Tarquin** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:01 pm

you should expect to pay between R10k and R15k.
it will most likey need a re bore and new valves as well.
definitely worth the overhaul

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:00 pm

With these motors consider an import aswell?

My folks had great service from some import 2E motors - and they are cheap as chips!

And can be fitted in a day vs a week or 2 for a recon!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:01 pm

Thabogrobler wrote:With these motors consider an import aswell?

My folks had great service from some import 2E motors - and they are cheap as chips!

And can be fitted in a day vs a week or 2 for a recon!

+1

Then you add slowly to the money that's been saved until there's enough to actually do the re-con to the original motor which you keep under wraps as stand-by and also if and when you sell, the original motor is part of the deal.

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:19 pm

Tx for fixing the 1.3, I assume it was you, Uncle Andy.
As for motor replacement... The wife wil have a fit if I have a spare motor lying around in the garage... So that (very sensible) idea will end up a bit towards the end of the list of options.
Regarding costing, I worked at a "backyard mechanic's" house last week, and the man seemed knowledgeable and his workshop was clean and seemed well kitted, and I found no oil on either the workshop floor or lawn, so I asked him how much he would charge and he said no more than 3,5k... Which he might be able to do, considering his low overheads, but this is why I am asking what all needs to be done to get such a motor back to "new" (impossible, I realise, but to get the most life out of it), so that I know if this dude is doing all that needs doing.

(In hindsight the guy might not have any oil on his floor simply because I never actually saw him working on a car during the 3 days we worked at his house...)

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:23 pm

Thabo, where did your folks go for their motor, and who fitted it for them, if I may ask?
Coz if we are going to go that route, I might consider bumping the 1.3 up to a 1.6, just to get that little bit more oomphh. It cannot be more thirsty than the 1.3!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:45 pm

No Mickey, it wasn't me (but you could have corrected it yourself by just editing the topic title in your first post - for future reference

).

OK, back to your dilemma, if you can afford the downtime, let him do it but bear in mind he's probably going to take longer than a week. His quote / estimate sounds like he's just going to do bearings and rings, which will work fine for a while but won't last. With the mileage you already have the bores are sure to have worn a little oval and a re-bore is more than likely going to necessary. Maybe once he has the motor stripped, you send the block in to an automotive engineering works and let them mic the bores up for you - that way the report comes to you and he can't BS you. Tell him that you will do this at your expense so that he cannot tell you it was done while it may not have been. If you are really lucky you might get away without a rebore and use std pistons but I doubt it. (I had this good fortune with my previous 2.2 Lux, but then the 2.2 is a lot lower revving than the 1300).

Let his quote reflect stripping / fitting new pistons (whatever size will be required) and rings / fitting new big end and journal bearings / fitting new crank seals / light head skim / full gasket set / if necessary replacing the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and spigot bearing / re-assembly and re-fit motor.

That way both you and he know where you stand with no variables on his side other than the clutch if it needs to be done while the motor is out.

At a thumbsuck you should be looking at about 8½ to 9 K all told.

P.S. The 1600 will be quite a bit more thirsty IMO

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:25 pm

The 1300(2E) and 1600(4AFE) differs considerably, if memory serves.

Agree with the whole clutch, pressure plate, etc. route, if the budget allows.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:05 am

Fuel consumption on the 1300 and 1600 is the same.

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:58 pm

The Tazz is quite heavy, so I can see where the 1.6 might not use too much more fuel, being a bit more able to haul all that old style metal around. Then again, the way the wife drives, she'll just floor it with the few more horses, so methinks the fuel bill will go up.
Got a few quotes, ranging from 15k to 18k, depending on radiator/clutch (both fairly new). This is more that half the car's value, but significantly less than a new car, and at least it's still a Toyota then...
Looks like I'm off the craft beers for the next while... Castle lager is still beer, but just not the same. Toyo service centre seems quite pro, so we might go their route. Will see if the guy I spoke to last week can do a comparative quote once I have a comprehensive quote in writing from Toyo.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:26 pm

That is a lot of money. Can't you do it yourself?

Our Tazz is also smoking (at 205,000km which is very disappointing for a Toyota), but I am only going to do the head and replace the valve stem seals.

Will probably do the operation next week or later this week.

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:35 pm

Pieter, ek's ongelukkig bietjie onnosel met sulke dinge, en sal 10 teen een op die einde van die dag meer moet opdok net om my eie gemors reg te maak.
Een van die ouens wat gequote het het genoem dat die wit rook veroorsaak word deur valvestem seals, en dat dit nie heeltemaal so 'n groot operasie is nie.
Ons ding is maar net dat ons die ou moutertjie so lank moontlik wil kan ry voor ons hom vervang, en in daai opsig is 15k nie regtig so duur nie. Soos my vrou sê, dis gelykstaande deesdae aan 3 of 4 maande se kar paaiemente, so jy spaar op die ander 44 paaiemente...
Maar ek vis nog rond vir iemand wat dit bietjie goedkoper kan doen sonder dat hy dit "cheap" doen, as jy weet wat ek bedoel...

Post by **pietpetoors** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:57 pm

Ek gaan myne se seëls probeer doen sonder om die head te trek. Indien dit nie werk nie gaan ek die head moet aftrek. Indien ek dit doen kan ek jou laat weet hoe die sleeve lyk en of hy op 200,000 soveel slytasie het dat mens die onderkant ook moet doen. Ek voel weer as die pistons en ringe nog 200,000km kan doen gaan ek nie nou aan hulle krap nie.

Indien hy meestal rook wanneer jy hom start of wanneer hy rukkie staan en idle het by verkeerslig, dan is dit valve stem seëls. Indien hy heeltyd rook is of die valestem seels heel in hulle kannon in of dit is die ringe.

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 12:05 pm

Mickey,

Ek dink Pieter het 'n hele klompie valid punte!

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 12:19 pm

Ek stem saam, Thabo, veral as ek Toyo service centre se quote van R22500 vir complete engine overhaul in ag neem... Dis meer as wat die blerrie kar werd is. Sal maar nog bietjie rondshop, want ek dink dat dit wel net valvestem seals is, want die outjie rook wit, en net onder lading (wegtrek, start).
As ek daai 22k by die tazz se verkoop prys sit kan ek amper 'n goeie 2e handse tjorretjie koop, so ons sal maar moet mooi dink hieroor as ek nie iemand met 'n billike prys en goeie werk kan kry nie.
Wag nog vir een ander quote, dan sal ons besluit. Sal ook afhang van Pieter se feedback oor toestand van sy tazz met 200k kilos, alhoewel mens nie altyd kan vergelyk nie, aangesien bestuurstyl ens wissel.

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:44 pm

Ek het nogal gewonder oor die valvestem seëls. Een manier van vervang is om ñ sparkplug te vat en ñ airhose aan te sit (hidroliese plekke sal kan help). Draai die engine sodat jou valves toe is en die piston onder is, sit lugdruk op die silinder via die sparkplug en dan kan jy die valvesprings versigtig loskry om valvestem seëls te vervang. So kom die head nie af nie. Alhoewel ñ headgasket seker ook nie so duur is nie.....

Post by **pietpetoors** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:43 pm

Jaco, ek het lank terug 'n XR3 se valve stem seels so vervang. In daardie geval het die piston hoog genoeg opgekom dat as hy op tdc was het hy die valve genoeg vasgehou dat hy nie terugval nie. Die groot truuk is natuurlik om die valve springs te compress. Met die XR3 het ek met flatbar 'n gadget gebou at ek aan die head vasgebout het op die punte wat die camshaft vashou, met sy hefboom aksie het ek die springs compress.

Om te terug te kom na die Tazz, die head en die enjin.
Ek het vanaand die head getrek.
Wou eers weer net die valve stem ding probeer, maar die head was so vol aanpaksel van die olie dat ek besluit het dit gaan beter wees om die head te trek sodat hy behoorlik skoongemaak kan word.

Die slegter nuus is dat die enjintjie, op 'n skamele 200,000km wel ', erg ridge op al die silinders het. Daar is geen manier wat ek die head net so kan terugsit nie. Die valve stem sees gaan help vir die rook in die oggend, maar oor minder as 50,000km gaan mens die enjin moet oordoen.

So hier gaat ons nou vir die hele kompleet oorbou.
Mickey, ek het ons wakkerste werktuigkundige op die dorp gevra oor die oordoen. Hy reken so R14k, as jy gelukkig is gaan jy wegkom met R12k.

Ek gaan dit sommer self doen, sal maar laat weet wat my totaal is. Ek gaan egter sommer die clutch ook doen terwyl die enjin uit is. Ook nuwe oliepomp insit, gaan hom boor, big ends en mains laat sny, die hele toetie.

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:22 am

Pieter,

Hier is jou kans nou om terug te gaan na jou roots - die Tazzie lekker warm te maak en die xhaust net so kort duskant die manifold af te sny!

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:15 pm

Tx, Pieter. Snaaks genoeg, ek't nou by 'n 2e ou gewerk wat reken dit sal minder as 5k kos... Klein workshop, maar gee waarborg. Sal hul later vra vir volledige quote.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:07 pm

Ek sou versigtig wees vir die R5k jobbie

Ek het vandag die hele enjin uitmekaar gehaal.
Al 4 silinders het riffies aan die bokant.
Ek gaan die crank ook laat sny aangesien ek al effe merkies op die big ends kan sien en vir veiligheid dit eerder laat sny

Die rede hoekom ek sê passop vir die R5k job is, kyk na pryse wat ek vandag gekry het dan vra jy jouself of hulle met arbeid ingesuit dit vir R5k kan doen:
Ingenieurswerk:
Blok boor - R520.00
Crank Sny - R520.00
Pistons se small ends uit press en nuwe pistons in press - R210.00
Head recon, aka valves grind, nuwe valve stems seëls en skim - R1300.00
Totaal: R2550.00

Parte
Volle Gasket set - R482.00
AE Pistons met ringe - R1048
Bearings (big end en mains) R283.00
Oliepomp - R845.00
Timing belt - R258.00
Timing belt tensioner en idler - R384
Clutch kit - R1191.00
Totaal: R4491.00
Sit waterpomp en fanbelts by en jou totaal gaan nader aan R4800.00 wees.

As jy 'n enjin oordoen is dit die beste om nuwe oliepomp en waterpomp in te sit.
Ek het my waterpomp 20,000km terug vervang, dus is hy nie in die lys nie. Oliepomp is 'n moet, dit is seker een van die belangrikste komponente in jou enjin.

Jy sal sien daar is 'n clutch kit, die Tazz het nou net oor die 200,000km en dit is nog sy oorspronglike clutch. Daar is minder as 1mm oor op die clutch. Arbeid is soms die duurste item op 'n werktuigkundige se rekening, dus solank alles buitendien oopgemaak moet word, laat hulle alles vervang wat moontlik kan ingee.

Die een werktuigkundige op die dorp sê hy het al skoolgelde betaal om iemand te probeer help en 'n chiep job op 'n 2E te doen. Hy het net ringe en valve stems vervang en ou pistons terug gesit. Die gevolg was dat die ou 5,000 km later terug was en toe raak dit sy probleem.

Hy se as daai enjin een keer warm geword het "warp" die silinders effe en dan begin hy olie gebruik en al hoe om dit reg te kry is om te boor en nuwe pistons en ringe in te sit.

Hierdie enjin van my is VOL van die aanpaksels. Soos ek verstaan veroorsaak sekere olies soos Castrol GTX die aanpaksels. Op die oog af lyk dit soos 'n harde kors, maar as jy hom krap en vryf dan voel jy dit is soos sand met olie gemeng. Daai goed is soos grindng paste. As ek net die head gedoen het, soos ek wou, sou daai crap steeds in die enjin gesit het en die bearings verder gevreet het.

Beste is die sump was deur Toyota getrek 'n paar maande gelede toe hulle my vertel het die zzzz klank wat ek hoor was die oliepomp se release valve wat vashaak (wat toe nie die geval was). Hulle het alles net so aanmekaar gesit met al daai crap steeds binne in. Was seker nie hulle werk om dit skoon te maak, maar as ek sien 'n klient se enjin lyk so binne sal ek hom bel en waarsku en vra of ek iets daaraan kan doen.

As ek na die koste van die parte kry, sou ek eers baie mooi hoor wat presies hulle vir R5,000.00 gaan doen.

: Oil pick-up; tazz-vuil3.jpg (122.86 KiB) Viewed 3461 times

: Sump; tazz-vuil2.jpg (118.82 KiB) Viewed 3461 times

: Bolt holding oil pick-up; tazz-vuil.jpg (84.63 KiB) Viewed 3461 times

Post by **george** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:14 pm

Bliksem daai aanpaksel lyk rof.Is dit werklik Castrol se oorsaak

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:24 pm

Ja, Pieter, ek sien jou punt duidelik in - sal in fact jou kostes as verwysing gebruik waneer ons die ou lady laat doen. Die 5k was genoem so vinnig in gesprek met die ou, en dis moontlik dat hy nie als (clutch, oliepomp etc) in sy syfer bereken het nie, maar eerder net dinge soos ringe ens. Soos ek gesê het, ek soek geskrewe kwotasies, anders raak jy nie aan die ding nie. Dis net interessant hoe party ouens jou kan afrokkel - jy't self nou gesien wat die parte kos, minder as 5k, en die groot werkswinkels kry sekerlik nog afslag ook by die ingenieurswerke en parte winkels. Hoe kom Toyo Service center dan by 22,5k???

Post by **pietpetoors** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:20 pm

George, die dae wat ek nog Golfs gery het, het almal jou gewaarsku om nie 'n can of the best in jou Golf te gooi omdat hy die aanpaksel vorm. Ek het die Tazz nie lank gery toe ontvang ek diesefde waarskuwing van 'n werktuigkundige. Of dit so is weet ek nie. Beste van als is, op die tappet cover is 'n sticker wat sê jy moet GTX gebruik.

Mickey, presies my gedagtes, lyk my as jy dit ordentlik doen gaan dit so R7,000 kos, dus is alles meer as dit arbeid.

Ek het stuk stuk gewerk, maar is seker as ek my foon afsit en niks anders doen sal ek alleen die enjin in een dag uithaal en uitmekaar haal. Dan vat jy so halwe dag om parte te koop en heen en weer na ingenieurswerke te ry. Nog so 2 uur om al die parte te was.

As jy alles kry en niks fout gaan kan jy hom weer in een dag (8 ure) aanmekaar sit en insit. Indien jy hierdie goed gereeld doen en lekker werkswinkel het, gebeur dit natuurlik BAIE vinniger.

Baie werktuigkundiges vra R350 per uur, arbeid kan dus maklik R7000 of so wees. Net jammer by baie van hulle is dit die handlanger wat R150 per dag verdien wat die werk doen waarvoor jy R350 per uur betaal.

Ja, die R22k is buitensporig.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:23 pm

Hou ook in gedagte jy kry goedkoper parte, jy kan bv pistons en ringe kry vir R622.00, maar ek het met alles gevra vir die beste "pirot" parte wat jy kan kry. Die oliepomp is regte Toyota.

Nou kom ons terug na my bakkie se plugdrade, R1800 vir 'n stel plug drade vir Hiux vs R845.00 vir 'n oliepomp wat presies en fyn gemasjieneer is en van harde staal en Alminium vervaardig is????????

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:29 pm

pietpetoors wrote:That is a lot of money. Can't you do it yourself?

Our Tazz is also smoking (at 205,000km which is very disappointing for a Toyota), but I am only going to do the head and replace the valve stem seals.

Will probably do the operation next week or later this week.

At that mileage could be just the valve stem seals Pieter.

Post by **JohanM** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:28 pm

Pieter,

So lank as wat ek kan onthou is Castrol olie nie iets wat jy in my voertuie se enjins kry nie.

Vriend van my het een diens geskip op sy Volvo s40 wat hy self gediens het aangesien hy die castol magnatex ingehad het. Uiteinde was dat die voertuig het so gesludge dat die turbo se seel gees gegee het ini ry en volgende oomblik was dit net rook orals uit soos die olie begin brand het ini uitlaat. Was groot sports gewees, voertuig is herstel en tans ry hy Shell Helix 5w40 synthetic oil in sy volvo.

Ons se altyd castrol olie is verdunde ghries.. Mens gooi dit nie in enige enjin of motor verwante aanwendings nie. Werk goed vir plaas lubrication op ou goed soos disselboom lube op so maar niks in n enjin nie.

Het al baie 140/160 runx gesien wat se camshafts gewear het omdat hulle castrol kry. Dis gif vir enige enjin. Net goed om die kruiwa se wiel mee to olie.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:56 pm

Baie intressant die Castrol GTX storie.As dit waar is wonder ek net hoe Sarel v/d Merwe en Jan Hettema se voertuie se engines dit reg gekry om so goed te presteer in die Catrol Rallys en die jare 70,s

Ek was self n groot voorstander van Castrol GTX olie.maar gebruik deesdae Shell Helix produkte

Post by **JohanM** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:05 pm

Lollie wrote:Baie intressant die Castrol GTX storie.As dit waar is wonder ek net hoe Sarel v/d Merwe en Jan Hettema se voertuie se engines dit reg gekry om so goed te presteer in die Catrol Rallys en die jare 70,s

Ek was self n groot voorstander van Castrol GTX olie.maar gebruik deesdae Shell Helix produkte

Eenvoudig Dawie,

Daai olie moet net een resies gehou het, nie 10-15000 km van warm koud, warm koud, oor ryk mengsels ect wat olie laat vinnger sludge nie. Dan het hulle die motor so te se oorgedoen waar nodig en meeste enjins was dan skoon olie gevoer en ook meeste resies enjins word geflush na elke race en sump kom af om te check dat daar niks abnormaal is nie.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:26 pm

JohanM wrote:
Lollie wrote:Baie intressant die Castrol GTX storie.As dit waar is wonder ek net hoe Sarel v/d Merwe en Jan Hettema se voertuie se engines dit reg gekry om so goed te presteer in die Catrol Rallys en die jare 70,s

Ek was self n groot voorstander van Castrol GTX olie.maar gebruik deesdae Shell Helix produkte
Eenvoudig Dawie,

Daai olie moet net een resies gehou het, nie 10-15000 km van warm koud, warm koud, oor ryk mengsels ect wat olie laat vinnger sludge nie. Dan het hulle die motor so te se oorgedoen waar nodig en meeste enjins was dan skoon olie gevoer en ook meeste resies enjins word geflush na elke race en sump kom af om te check dat daar niks abnormaal is nie.

Dankie Johan

Maak baie sin wat jy se.Ek is net baie bly my SSS Datsuns het my nie moeilikheid gegee ,want dit was al olie wat ek daardie jare gebruik het.

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:29 pm

Ek gebruik ook net Shell. Hou net in gedagte, as ñ enjin baie aangepak is en jy gooi dan Shell in, kan baie van daai gemors loskom. Dit kan dan jou olie pick-up blok. Ek het dit al gesien gebeur.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:52 pm

as ñ enjin baie aangepak is en jy gooi dan Shell in, kan baie van daai gemors loskom. Dit kan dan jou olie pick-up blok. Ek het dit al gesien gebeur.

Ek vermoed dit is presies wat hier gebeur het.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:53 pm

Ek is opsoek na die torque settings vir die boute
Ek sien op 'n web site
Flywheel bolts: 85Nm
Cylinder head bolts: 29Nm + 49NM + 90°
Connecting rod bolts: 25Nm + 90°
Main bearing bolts: 57Nm

Die head een verstaan ek nie, wat beteken Cylinder head bolts: 29Nm + 49NM + 90°

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:06 pm

3 stages: 29Nm, los die boude vir 10min, trek hulle dan 49Nm, 10min rus, dan word die boude gemerk met ñ tip-ex strepie en word dan nog ñ verdere 90 grade vasgedraai.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:33 am

Thanx a mil

dantjie · Post by **dantjie** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:42 am

Castrol GTX= STAY AWAY...

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:06 pm

Are you using new headbolts? 3 stage torque means they are stretchbolts.

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:48 pm

Ek het gaan kyk, volgens my program hoef jy nie die headboude te vervang nie.
Main bearings - 28Nm + 57Nm
Big end bearings - 20Nm + 39Nm
Flywheel - 83Nm
Crankshaft pulley - 152Nm
Camshaft sprocket - 50Nm

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:10 pm

Thanx.

Oops, did not torque the crank pulley and camshaft gear, but tightened them properly.
152 Nm for crank is plenty, so I will rather check that one again tomorrow morning before it leaves for Cape Town.

Finished it this morning. Started first time , en hy loop soos stroop.

When I looked at the nice clean engine, new radiator and new radiator fan, the 9 year old radiator hoses started to haunt me. So I ordered some new ones from the spare shop and will fit it next weekend when I re-torque the head.

The aluminium radiator is nice. Do not know if it is just because it is new and clean, but the temp gauge was nether that low on this car.

Must say, it is a nice, easy, straight forward motor. I am sure if it wasn't for the sludge it would easily do 400,000km or more. The sludge was definitely the cause of excessive wear. While cleaning the engine, everywhere you touch the inside felt like grinding paste.

The sleeves were so worn that they bored it 2 oversize

The mains and big ends; the engineering shop said they still OK, but I decided the machining is only R550 and I have to buy bearings anyway, so I told them to rather cut the crank so that I know it is new and perfect.

Matching the engine to the gearbox taught me some new words and some new meanings to existing words.
Only after a rather long battle I got it in. When I started to put the bolts in, I saw the backplate which is between the gearbox and engine was the culprit. It got stuck on the CV joint and I actually got it in after I have bent the plate enough to pass the CV joint. Of course because I was only working at the top, I could not see that until after the engine was in. If I ever have to do this again I will redesign that plate before I put the engine back in.

I learned a valuable lesson. If you battle with something, take a step back, make coffee and relax. I was battling for about and hour when I decided to just stop, leave everything and make myself a nice strong cup of boeretroos. I sat in the garage, enjoying my coffee on a houtstomp while trying to connect to the little car's soul (if it had any left). I got up, moved the crane a little bit, jacked the gearbox up a bit and within 50 seconds the engine was in.

The clutch plate was still the original LUK with Toyota branding. With 205300 km on the clock, I guess it was good for another 30,000km. The flywheel and pressure plate were still perfect. But I also had the flywheel skimmed just in case (only R230.00) and because I fitted a complete clutch kit the pressure plate and thrust bearing were also replaced.

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:02 pm

Very well done!!!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:32 pm

Well done Pieter!

Post by **george** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:38 am

Kwaai man.Bly hy is reg.Dis goed om te weet hier is nou iemand in die Baan wat engines kan oorbou,

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:44 am

Mooi man. Waneer kan ons kom kuier?

Ons debateer nog die hele besigheid, maar het lekker waardevolle info opgetel op hierdie thread.
Dankie!
Sal ons tazz in die nuwe jaar laat doen.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 11:25 am

I thin I have a good questions.
When you torque the head while rebuilding the engine there is a 3 step process. 29Nm, 50 Nm and then 90 degrees. Unless you have some fancy dial thinge magiek you will nether know if you did 90 degrees or 84.5.

Anyway, my question now is, after 1000km, how much do you torque it now? Since you don't know where you left it after the 90 degree stunt, where do you go from here?

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:22 pm

Leave it. I don't think it is necessary to re-torque it. Like you said, you do not have a final torque setting.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:01 pm

Thanks, yes in the end got hold of a mechanic and he said it does not need re torque because it got "stress bolts"

dd6 · Post by **dd6** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:18 pm

Stretch bolts

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:56 pm

Stressed Stretch bolts