Brake disk replacement

[WayneMan]

I have KZ-TE hilux with manual locking hubs.
Does anyone have the procedure or steps for replacing the front disk units. Is it a fairly easy job?

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[Family_Dog]

Wayne, have a look here, you might find something to assist you.
https://www.hilux4x4.co.za/manual/

I have never doe this on a Hilux but I have on other cars in another century, it was a fairly esay job.

-F_D

[WayneMan]

Thanks FD, I will have a look. Appreciate the help.

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[Cbotha15]

I have KZ-TE hilux with manual locking hubs.
Does anyone have the procedure or steps for replacing the front disk units. Is it a fairly easy job?

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When I get home tonight I will find the page in my Haynes Workshop manual and take a picture to post it here. Their instructions are very clear.
Its a fairly easy job to do. If you replace the discs then throw a new set of pads on as well.

[WayneMan]

Tha k you sir, appreciate that !

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[Cbotha15]

Tha k you sir, appreciate that !

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Hope this helps.

The internet is also full of videos showing how to do this.

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[WayneMan]

Many thanks appreciate that

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[Cbotha15]

I thought I'd share some information on this since I recently did the same thing.

After 230 000km the OEM discs on my Hilux needed replacing. I got a price from Toyota. They are R8000 for a set (2 discs) just for reference. I eventually settled on a Terrain Tamer set of high performance rotors and pads. I got the whole set from TTG Offroad in pretoria for just over R11000. (2 rotors and 4 pads). It was very expensive, but I wanted better brakes to help deal with the extra weight and bigger tyres a bit better than the factory offerings. So far they are working well.

3 things that I will ad for anyone reading this and looking for information. You need a 54mm socket to undo the nut that holds the wheelbearing in place. Its the only way to get the complete hub off so you can undo the bolts holding the rotor to the hub from the back. I ending up buying a King Tony socket from takealot for R800 and it work perfectly. While you've got the wheelbearings off its a good idea to inspect them and repack them with fresh grease if needed. You might as well budget a bit of extra time to do this all in one go.

The second thing is that on the 4x4 models you need to remove the locking cap and the free wheel hub to get to the wheelbearing nut. The freewheel locking cap and hub both have gaskets that should be replaced after the hub is taken off. Might as well have a set of these on hand when attempting this job.

Lastly, I would have gone with a local company called Powerbrake for the pads and rotors, but after trying to fit the pads they supplied we realised that the inner pad profiles is not going to work and they refunded me the whole set no questions asked. (Silver linings I guess)

I hope this can help someone else who's looking to do this relatively simple job themselves.

[Mud Dog]

You don't need to buy an expensive 54mm socket, a plumber's geyser element socket (pressed steel) works perfectly at a cost of about 80 / 90 rand.

[Cbotha15]

You don't need to buy an expensive 54mm socket, a plumber's geyser element socket (pressed steel) works perfectly at a cost of about 80 / 90 rand.

Well shit. Now you tell me

[Mud Dog]

It has been mentioned a number of times before on this forum. A search on front wheel bearings would most likely have brought that fact to light .... of course you have to read through it all.

[Cbotha15]

It has been mentioned a number of times before on this forum. A search on front wheel bearings would most likely have brought that fact to light .... of course you have to read through it all.

See this is all based on the assumption that I can in fact read.

[Mud Dog]

Right ... my bad.

[dax021]

I went so far as to cut my geyser spanner in half, just to reduce it's footprint, and welded an old socket to the back, so that I can use it with a torque wrench. Unfortunately, it is at my store, so can't post a picture