Smoke after gasket replacement

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:19 pm

I recently blew a head gasket and had to have the head skimmed and gasket replaced. Since getting it back, the Hilux is drinking a lot of oil and giving off a fair amount of white smoke, and at low revs the accelerator is not very responsive. I also have to keep topping up the coolant in the radiator (although this could be due to leaks in the pipes). Also, while the temperature gauge generally stays at about 1/3, sometimes it seems to drift up to 1/2 and just over, though it comes back down again after a while, and never gets near to the red. Before the gasket went, the gauge would be solid on 1/3 all the time. Power levels seem to be as they were before.

There's no milkiness in the oil that I can detect, and if I start the bakkie with the radiator cap off, it doesn't push water out, so I don't think there's a gasket leak, but I'm no expert on these matters.

Any idea what could be wrong, and whether it's serious? Anyone in Pretoria East (La Montagne area) I could take it to to have a look?

Borntofish · Post by **Borntofish** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:26 pm

Rudi, ek stel voor jy praat met Louis op die forum. Dit klink vir my of daardie gasket nie reg is nie.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:53 pm

Borntofish wrote:Rudi, ek stel voor jy praat met Louis op die forum. Dit klink vir my of daardie gasket nie reg is nie.

Dit was ook die advies die laas keer ek probleme gehad het. Ek dink dis dalk tyd vir 'n besoek aan 4x4 Megaworld Menlyn...

himuts · Post by **himuts** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:45 am

White smoke can als be unburned diesel.
Drinking oil should give blue smoke.

However: when a diesel not get enough diesel is sucks oil.

So my thinking is the timing belt a thooth wrong or the diesel pump is moved.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 1:15 am

Henk, Rudi has a 2.2 petrol motor (4Y). The white smoke is oil being burned and he's using oil. Apparently the only thing that has changed is the head gasket was replaced, so the other causes like rings and valve stem seals are unlikely candidates.

himuts · Post by **himuts** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:42 am

Mud Dog wrote:Henk, Rudi has a 2.2 petrol motor (4Y). The white smoke is oil being burned and he's using oil. Apparently the only thing that has changed is the head gasket was replaced, so the other causes like rings and valve stem seals are unlikely candidates.

Is there a hole were I can dig myself in? will somebody close it?

Sorry Ryperd!

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Tue May 06, 2014 12:49 pm

Louis thought it could be overfueling that was causing the smoke (fuel level in the carburettor does seem to be too high), but I also took it to Silverton Radiators for testing, and it came up positive for carbon monoxide (blue liquid turned yellow). So that means it's either the gasket or the cylinder head, right? I could chase up the guy who (allegedly) sent the head for engineering and replaced the gasket. But at this point I'd rather do the legwork myself so that I know what I'm dealing with

. So my questions now:

1) How do I know if the cylinder head is cracked or not? Would a reputable engineering place be able to tell, or should I just replace the head? Any recommendations on reputable places in Pretoria?

2) Is it advisable to do the dissassembly / assembly work myself, or am I asking for trouble if I don't really know what I'm doing?

3) Am I likely to do damage to the engine if I continue to drive it, or should the vehicle not move until this is sorted out?

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Tue May 06, 2014 1:34 pm

Henk, there's no need to find a hole! I appreciate all the advice I can get

!!

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Tue May 06, 2014 5:33 pm

Rudi

Ek stel voor jy koop n nuwe head kompleet met valves.Ek het een by Engine Den in Pretoria gekoop vir R1650.00 btw ingesluit.Het nie n dag se probleme daarmee nie.Die kwaliteit is van hoe gehalte.Louis van 4x4 Megaworld kan dit bevestig.Hy het self die head vir my gaan koop.

En dan glo ek ten volle net in die ingevoerde 4y Toyota head gasket .(Die wat Toyota verkoop is Payen gaskets)

Sterkte met jou besluit.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Tue May 06, 2014 8:16 pm

Dankie vir die advies, Dawie. Vir so 'n prys sal ek graag 'n nuwe head koop! In 'n ander thread was die prys vir 'n KZ-TE head met valves blykbaar R8,500. Is 'n 4Y s'n soveel goedkoper?!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue May 06, 2014 9:03 pm

Diesel heads is altyd duurder, en die 4y s'n waarvan Dawie praat is eintlik 'n 'pirate part', niks daarmee verkeerd nie. Die lae prys is miskien een van die min dinge waarvoor ons die minibus taxi bedryf dankbaar kan wees. Ek het omgeveer 40,000 kilos met so 'n head (en Payen gasket) afgelê sonder enige probleme voordat die voortuig gesteel is.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Tue May 06, 2014 9:56 pm

The head was actually replaced just under 40,000km back. Just checked the invoice and they charged me R3,000 for it (gasket, labour, etc. excluded)

! I'm sure it wasn't an original part. It seems that joining this forum is financially a very good move

!!

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:25 am

Dawie, kry jy die Payen gasket ook by Engine Den, of van Toyota self?

Post by **LouisZ** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:34 am

You can also go for the Victor Reinz. Just check the water holes, some makes have the problem that these are too small. I usually take my Dremel tool and make them a bit bigger.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:38 am

Ryperd wrote:Dawie, kry jy die Payen gasket ook by Engine Den, of van Toyota self?

Hulle is plaaslike vervaardig en meeste spares plekke hou dit aan. Probeer ook Midas en Autozone .

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu May 08, 2014 10:49 am

Okay, I think I might attempt it this weekend. It will be new DIY territory for me, but it sounds like I should be okay with enough time and beer. What other tools / parts / supplies will I need?

Parts etc.: R2458
* cylinder head with valves (Engine Den) - R1650
* Payen head gasket (Midas East Lynne) - R95
* Payen intake/exhaust manifold (Midas East Lynne) - R57
* Oil filter (Midas East Lynne) - R42
* Coolant - 7l premix @R58/l (Toyota Lynnwood) - R406 (expensive?)
* Shell Rimula 15W40 - 5l (Midas East Lynne) - R208

Tools:
* Standard sockets, left-hand screwdrivers, etc.
* Torque wrench
* Breaker bar

Questions:
* THE GUIDE says gasket maker. Where would I use it? My Haynes manual says to fit the gasket dry.
* The Haynes manual also says to run a tap into the bolt holes, and a die over the bolts. Is this necessary? Should I be getting new head bolts?
* Should I do anything with the timing chain or thermostat?
* Anything else I should look at while I have everything open?

Thanks for the advice so far!

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Thu May 08, 2014 11:29 am

You definitely do not put gasket maker on the Cylinder Head Gasket. Make sure both surfaces are completely clean and dry. Remove all remnants of the old Cylinder Head Gasket from the engine block and try to avoid that any rubbish/scrapings fall into any of the cylinders, oil and water channels.

I see you have a workshop manual. Make sure that you follow the tightening sequence of the cylinder head bolts exactly. Lightly oil the threads of the cylinder head bolts and the bearing surface of the head of the bolts on the washers. I don't know that engine but if the bolts are stretch bolts then it is always a good idea to replace them. You will know that they are stretch bolts if the instructions are something along the lines of two or three stages to a specific torque value and a last stage rotation by a certain degree setting like 45 or 90 degrees. If they aren't and are undamaged then there is no need to replace them.

It is always a good idea to make sure that the holes in the engine block where the cylinder head bolts go are clean with no oil in. I have never had to tap them but always make sure they are completely clean.

I like to replace items that wear when I tackle a job like this. If you already removed most of what is required in any event I would check the timing chain and tensioner/s as well and replace but as I said I do not know this engine and therefore it may not be required or may cause a lot of additional work. Someone with more specific knowledge will chime in here no doubt.

How old is the thermostat? If it is five or more years old and you have already drained the coolant I will replace the thermostat. I won't buy the expensive premix again. I would simply buy VW G12+ concentrate (if you really want it to be pink) or BP Isocool is also excellent anti-freeze/ anti-corrosion coolant and mix according to the instructions. Open the heat exchanger valve in the cabin (turn on the heat) so that the coolant in the heat exchanger also drains.

Lastly make doubly sure that all the timing marks on the crankshaft/camshaft etc. align when you assemble everything. (The 4Y is not an OHC motor - it has push rods, so there's nothing to be done with valve timing unless you change the timing chain. Just though I should mention to be clear. MD.)

As you will be able to see the cylinders this would be a good time to check how much wear there is in the cylinder bores.

Take your time and save the beer drinking for the celebrations afterwards.

BTW I just had a look at the instructions you posted a link to. I does not look like those are stretch bolts so I would only replace them if they are damaged. You must get the correct sequence they are to be tightened in and follow that for both stages. You must not forget to re-torque the head bolts after a 1000 ks using the same sequence.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Thu May 08, 2014 5:47 pm

Rudi

Die 4y engine is seker een van die maklikste engines om n head te vervang.Maak net seker dat jy sit die pushrods en hydrauclic lifters weer in dieselfde plek terug waar jy hulle uitgehaal het.

Om die rockershaft terug te sit sal jy wens jy het 20 vingers om al die pushrods in plek te hou,maar dit is nie moeilik nie.Net baie geduld.

Geniet die joppie.Altyd lekker as n mens iets self doen ,dan weet jy dit is behoorlik en ordentlik gedoen.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:02 pm

See my note in green in Marnus's post above.

I notice your "Tools List" is missing a 'big hammer'!

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Fri May 09, 2014 9:02 am

Thanks for that MD. I should have been more specific to say that if you decide to replace the timing chain etc. then make sure all the timing marks line up.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Fri May 09, 2014 2:45 pm

Thanks all! It sounds like for the thermostat you should use OEM parts, but that would only come on Monday, so I'm leaving it as is for now. I don't think the overheating was anything thermostat related, so it should be okay for a while longer. I also can't hear any noise that I would think is timing chain related, so I think I'll leave that one for another day too.

Got Rimula R4 x oil, since it seems that the R3 x will be / has been discontinued? Not sure about ZDDP levels and all, but from other posts it seems that it can't be too bad. At R280 I would hope not! Still a bit nervous about putting a heavy duty diesel graded oil in but it seems to have served others well with the 4Y, and I try to keep the revs low anyway.

I think I should have what I need, so looking forward to getting my hands dirty tomorrow!

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Fri May 09, 2014 3:04 pm

I have only ever bought an OEM thermostat if one was not available otherwise or more expensive. The Echlin/Control Instruments Thermostats are good quality. Just check sometimes it is more expensive than the OEM.

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Fri May 09, 2014 6:34 pm

Looking forward to a positive outcome, nothing beats doing something for yourself, cos then you know 1. how to do it and 2. that it was done well. All part of a learning curve, learnt a lot myself also this way - this is what makes this forum/club/people so awesome.

Do take pikchas as you tread along, good luck

Agree also on the above - no beer until that first crank when she starts firing immediately

Remember to chain your wife/dog/cat/son/daughter away, any little distraction might leave you absent minded making mistakes.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Sat May 10, 2014 11:55 pm

Okay, day 1 is done, and the cylinder head is off! Took longer than I thought it would, but learned a lot in the process. Some questions still remain though, as you'll see in the first pic:

Firstly, how do I remove the bolts / pins (nos 1,2) in the old cylinder head and move them over to the new cylinder head? Secondly, what is attached at no. 3, and why would it show signs of corrosion, like on a battery terminal? Finally, what is no. 4, and is there any special process for moving it to the new cylinder head?

It's the first time I've looked this deep into the engine, so I don't really know what it should look like, but I've attached some photos of the cylinders and the head. Cylinder 4 looks a bit gunky, and cylinder 1 shows some signs of corrosion. I'm not sure how I can tell what was failing - please let me know if anyone can see anything I should be worried about or do something about here.

Cylinder 1:

Cylinder 4:

Old head:

There seems to be quite a bit of oil splatter on the side of the engine coming down from the no 3 and 4 cylinders. The carb was looking like it was in bad shape, so it might have been from that, or we could have spilled some petrol while removing the carb. Will see how it looks in the morning.

It looks like I'll need at least a new gasket for the carburettor, so I won't be able to finish this weekend, but hope to get most of the stuff back on tomorrow if I can. Here's what's come off so far:

WESKUSKLONG · Post by **WESKUSKLONG** » Sun May 11, 2014 12:44 am

Have a look at the spark plug and valves of no 4 it seems wet, so the fault is got something to do around no 4

Bit difficult to see everything on the pictures .
To remove the studs 1 & 2 simply lock two nuts on the stud and loosen it.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 11, 2014 1:41 am

WESKUSKLONG wrote:Have a look at the spark plug and valves of no 4 it seems wet, so the fault is got something to do around no 4
Bit difficult to see everything on the pictures .
To remove the studs 1 & 2 simply lock two nuts on the stud and loosen it.

Exactly right - just remember to use a spanner (not socket) and engage it on the bottom nut of the two for loosening and the top nut of the two for turning it into the new head.

No 4 cylinder is almost always the first to give hassles - it runs the hottest since it's furthest from the coolant returning from the radiator. In fact if you look at that pic of the block face you can see exactly where the gasket failed.

Can't remember anymore what "number 3" was for - think it was originally for colder climates but is just blanked off. No 4 is a vacuum thermo switch for the carb, just fit them into the new head with PTFE thread tape.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 8:37 am

Hi Rudi

Maak net baie baie seker dat daar n gat op jou head gesny is vir daardie nr 4 plug op jou foto.Jy wil verseker nie al die werk doen en dan agterkom jy moet weer die head af haal nie.

Ek het my head na n ingeneurs firma toe geneem om die gat te boor en te sny.As jy joune nie n gat het nie,onthou om die plug saam te neem sodat hulle kan sien watter draad en groote gat geboor moet word.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 8:53 am

Rudi

Net n regstelling.Die nommer 4 gat was op die pirate head.Dit is die een langs die temperature unit wat ek moes laat sny het.In jou geval skroef daar n plug in vir die carb se pypies.Ek hardloop n ekstra temperatuur meter op myne.

Ek het EFI op my bakkie en gebruik nie daardie 110 pypies nie

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Sun May 11, 2014 11:24 am

Thanks all for the ongoing advice! I looked around at the local spares places this morning and couldn't find the gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the carb. Is it okay to cut one out from Flexoid sheeting, or should it be a proper dinkum gasket?

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 12:33 pm

Rudi

Jy bedoel seker die intake manifold?

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Sun May 11, 2014 12:44 pm

Dawie, dis hierdie een:

Ek het ook nie gaskets vir die dele voor en agter op die head waar die water deur vloei nie (een wat net agter nommer 4 in my vorige foto sit, en die ander heel agter op die head).

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 11, 2014 2:02 pm

That's the carb / inlet manifold gasket ./... doesn't have to be a bought gasket - you can cut your own for there as well as the one on the back of the head.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 3:18 pm

Mud Dog wrote:That's the carb / inlet manifold gasket ./... doesn't have to be a bought gasket - you can cut your own for there as well as the one on the back of the head.

+1

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Sun May 11, 2014 4:42 pm

Is there a standard torque setting for these attachments? Looking at the listings for 12mm bolts in the Haynes guide, I used 19nm, but that sheared one of the bolts! It didn't even seem to be exerting that much force. Fortunately I could remove it by hand, but now I'm worried! Do you just "spanner tighten" by hand, or should you set a torque on them?

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 5:44 pm

Cylinder head bolts
Main bolts 88nm
Sub bolts 19nm (3 x 12mm boute onder vonkpropppe)

Rockershaft bolt and nuts 24nm
Manifold nuts 49nm

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sun May 11, 2014 5:49 pm

Rudi,

Hoe seker is jy dat jou torque wrench nog korrek is?Vra maar net

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Sun May 11, 2014 6:43 pm

Dawie, ek wonder self. Ek sou nie gedink het dat dit teen 19nm kon shear nie.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 11, 2014 11:13 pm

Ryperd wrote:Is there a standard torque setting for these attachments? Looking at the listings for 12mm bolts in the Haynes guide, I used 19nm, but that sheared one of the bolts! It didn't even seem to be exerting that much force. Fortunately I could remove it by hand, but now I'm worried! Do you just "spanner tighten" by hand, or should you set a torque on them?

Are you talking about the head size or the shank size?

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Mon May 12, 2014 12:38 am

Andy, it takes a 12 mm socket, so I guess it's head size then. I think it was just a dicky bolt. I tested the torque wrench on my wheel lugs, and it worked fine there. Based on feel, I suspect that the wrench might overtighten if there are too many socket extensions on and it's a funny angle, but it could just be that I don't have as much leverage and it just feels like it's tightening too much.

Anyway, it's more or less back together now.

I will unfortunately have to get a couple of replacement nuts and bolts before I can celebrate a running engine though. :|

There is a part that looks broken - does anyone know what this thingumy does? The plastic cylinder on the front has broken off...

I also have a couple of questions about tolerances on the engine block and intake / exhaust manifold, but I'll get to that tomorrow.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:16 am

I checked the manifold for warpage, and found that the exhaust "pipe" next to the no 1 cylinder was slightly misaligned. The manual gives the tolerance as 0.4mm, and the 0.4 feeler gauge could just fit under the straightedge. Is this a problem?

Then, I spent hours cleaning up the block surface, but I'm not sure I was using the right technique. I'd seen too many references saying you shouldn't use metal scrapers or sandpaper, so I was using basically a plastic scraper, some acetone / benzine, and cloth and fingernails. I got it pretty clean, but there was still a bit of residue from the old gasket. I hope you can see on these pictures. They are taken around the no 4 cylinder, which was where it was the hardest to clean off. It's also where it failed, so I don't want to have to do this all over again.

Eventually we had to make a call and say it was clean enough, or we wouldn't have enough time to assemble everything. I apologise for the poor quality pictures, but hope you can make out the small areas with "blistering" from the old gasket. Do you think it will be okay like this, or will I need to undo everything again and clean that block some more? Also, that "ridge" on the rim of the cylinder sleeve (see first close-up picture) is metal, and not gasket. Is that something to worry about?

Post by **LouisZ** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:29 am

Your cab was over fueling that is why no 4 cylinder is wet like that.

Post by **LouisZ** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:36 am

Use very fine sandpaper, such as 1000 with water to get all the old gasket off, use clean rags and put it into the cylinders. The block top have to be perfectly clean. The ridge on the piston cylinders at the top is how it should be.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Tue May 13, 2014 7:09 pm

Thanks Louis. I think to be safe I'll leave it for another free weekend, then take it apart again and sand it down fully as you say. It's been a useful learning process, and I have appreciated everyone's advice. The Haynes manual has been excellent, but there are a few places where they say what, but not how - like "thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces, removing all traces of gasket material". It's great being able to ask questions on here in such cases.

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Wed May 14, 2014 7:06 am

Jy moet maar wag en kyk of hy weer blaas want as jy die silinder kop afhaal gaan jy weer 'n nuwe Cylider Head Gasket moet opsit. Ek maak die oppervalkke skoon deur dit met 'n Stanley mes lem te skraap. Met die skerp kant. Ek hou die lemmetjie in my hand en dan maak ek seker hy is plat op die oppervlakte wat ek skraap. Jy sal nooit die enjin blok beskadig so nie. Op die aluminium silinder kop moet mens versigtiger wees maar ek het nog nooit enige problem so opgetel nie en dit kom relatief maklik skoon so.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Thu May 15, 2014 11:45 am

Ek sal nie n kans vat en so ry nie,want jy gaan nie weet waar hy jou op die lang pad gaan laat staan nie.

Maak blok behoorlik skoon en sit dan n nuwe head gasket op.Dan het jy gemoedsrus

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:30 pm

Hi all. I'm getting back to this now that I have a bit of time again. To check that everything was working, I tried turning the engine using a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. To start with, it turns easily enough, but it gets to a point when there's really quite a lot of resistance. I don't want to put too much torque on it if I could be doing some damage somewhere. How much resistance is normal (I removed the spark plugs first so there shouldn't be engine compression involved)?

I checked the rocker assembly and it seems to be right, but I'm not sure what it would look like if it was wrong. Anything else I should check? I didn't touch the timing chain at all.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:45 pm

*takes it out of gear*

Post by **Family_Dog** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:15 pm

Just remember to remove the spanner from the crankshaft bolt before starting the engine... ;)

-F_D

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:39 pm

Okay, engine started on the third attempt. It was running, but sounding very rough so I shut it off. Does it take some time for the oil and fuel and everything to work its way through the system again, or should it be smooth from the start? Also, I opened the oil cap, and there was a small amount of wispy blue smoke coming out. I'm guessing that's maybe not a good sign, or is it to be expected as the oil heats up?

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:23 pm

I would have let it run a little longer, just in case the hydraulic lifters hadn't got full oil pressure yet.

You haven't interfered with the valve timing or the valves, so there should be no fault there. Did you remove the distributor at all or change the ignition timing? Also, did you re-connect the wire to the idle solenoid as well as the one to the auto choke? All vacuum pipes correctly re-connected?

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:36 pm

Thanks Andy. No, never touched the distributor, and made sure the points were connected in the right order. The only wires that were removed were the negative cable from the battery, and the connector on the vacuum valve (the 'thingumy' in the photo above) which is reconnected. Where would the auto choke or idle solenoid connect?

I'll check the vacuum pipes again, but I think they are all in the right place. It did look like the fuel level was too high in the carb, but it wasn't clear in the dark. As Louis said, it was already overfueling, so I'll need to either recon the carb or have the EFI done.

I haven't redone the gasket yet (thought I'd see how it goes first since it sounds like it'll be just as much effort anyway), so it could be channelling compression into the cooling system or the oil.

This has been a great learning experience, but I'm discovering that it makes a huge difference if you've actually seen the job done somewhere else so you know what "normal" is. I'll start it up again tomorrow morning and try to take a video so the more experienced forum members can tell me whether it's okay or if I'm damaging my engine.

Edit: Just checked over my photos and see that there were a couple more wires that were disconnected. I'l check tomorrow morning whether they were reconnected (I'm pretty sure they were).

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:58 pm

The float chamber fuel level should be exactly (or just a fraction lower) than the centre of the sight-glass on the carb when the vehicle is standing level. If it's too high, just take the top of the carb off, which will expose the float chamber - gently tweak the little arm on the float that pushes against the fuel feed needle valve .... it can be a bit of a trial and error affair. Over-fuelling can be a cause for it to run rough, but if it wasn't running rough before it shouldn't do so now, even if the float level is wrong (that is to say if you haven't changed the float level in the interim).

Post by **LouisZ** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:21 am

The smoke when you opened the oil cap is nothing to worry about. Just let it run a bit longer. Are your firing order correct? 1342 when you placed the spark plug leads onto the sparkplugs?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:49 am

I usually have a smoke after checking the oil... It's really relaxing..

But if you feel like it, you can have a smoke after replacing your gasket, but it must be noted that smoking can be hazardous to your health....

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:53 am

I ran it a little longer this morning, but it's still not sounding right, and it's billowing blue smoke. I think I'm going to have to redo that gasket. Here's a short video of it running:

phpBB [video]

View Original

The vacuum pipes are all in the right place (or at least, the same place they were before), but the float level is way at the top. Would that be enough to cause such a rough idle? I'll fiddle with the float arm, but I think there are more fundamental issues here than just the float level.

Post by **LouisZ** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:55 am

Grapkas!!

Gewoonlik sit ek met 'n koue bier en 'n rookie en kyk na my harde werk as ek klaar is.

Rudi jy het goed gedoen sover. Net onthoudaai klein M8 boute op die head wat hier en daar vasmaak is maar sag, draai net versigtig vas sonder die torque wrench.

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:57 am

4x4megaworldpta wrote:Are your firing order correct? 1342 when you placed the spark plug leads onto the sparkplugs?

Louis, the leads had numbers on them, and I'm pretty sure I replaced them in the same order I took them out, but I could be wrong. From the front of the engine, I plugged them in order: 1,2,3,4. Should I do it 1,3,4,2?

Post by **LouisZ** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:59 am

Firing order? Take a pic of the dizzy and sparks that I can se the layout?

Post by **LouisZ** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:00 am

1342 is the correct order

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:41 am

ThysdJ wrote:I usually have a smoke after checking the oil... It's really relaxing..

But if you feel like it, you can have a smoke after replacing your gasket, but it must be noted that smoking can be hazardous to your health....

Thys, all of this work is to get Ryperd to quit smoking, so please don't encourage it!