Hilux 4x4 Forum

Took my Hilux to Schalk (Dyno Logic) for Dyno on Friday. Everything looked and felt great until Saturday morning on our way to RFAD. Sudden cut out and struggled to start again. Eventually got it fired up and applied the "Revright" principal. We made it to the GTG, but cuts out when compressing the clutch. Idling in general is not what it's suppose to be and less power on uphills.

So this afternoon, I went back to Schalk and we checked everything possible. In a Nutshell. He suggest I there might be a few factors, but I should rather consider buying a complete new one and do the Dyno again. Apparently this will be more cost effective than leaving my vehicle there for him to strip the existing carb and do fault finding.

So, my question is: Anyone out there who knows someone who knows someone for the best option to a new 22R Carburetor?

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

You could try the stealers? Otherwise find a reputable carb rebuild centre like the one in Paarden Island here in Cape Town. Just for interest sake, what kind of economy do you get? My 22r gets around 6 to 5.5 around town. 7.2 on the open road under 120km. These carbs are interesting with their various stages, if one little rubber or gasket or vacuum pipe is leaking, it can throw your fuel delivery out of whack!

That just doesn't sound right at all. The only time you turf a carb is if the butterfly bushes are worn to buggery and that's a simple thing to check. I'm afraid your friend doesn't know carbs. Take it to someone that does.

First things you can do yourself are to check the float level through the sight glass when the vehicle is standing on a level surface - the fuel level in the float bowl should be exactly on the halfway point and it should stay there when the motor is running - watch it at idle for about 20 seconds and then pick up the revs a fair bit and watch it again. If there is a level difference:
Level dropping, you have a fuel supply problem - could be a choked fuel filter or a weak fuel pump ...
Level rising, the needle and seat valve is leaking and needs to be replaced.

Check that all the vacuum hoses are in place and that they are not perished.

Check to see that the idle solenoid valve wire is connected (you'll see the solenoid with a black wire towards the back of the carb on the driver's side).

Take off the air supply to the top of the carb - the hose that's connected to it is just a crank breather and can be left disconnected for the purposes of the check. If the motor is already hot, the choke butterfly should be fully open but the test is best done from a cold start in the morning. Before starting and immediately after starting, the choke should be closed and open gradually as the motor warms up and it opens completely. If it's not doing that check that the wire at the back of the carb is connected and making proper contact (there is a connector further down ob that wire as well). Also check with a voltmeter that there is power on that wire when the motor is on. If the wire is ok with power and the choke remains closed, the bi-metal choke controller is poked (that's the black round thingy on the cab side [back] of the carb).

Don't fiddle with the settings - they were OK before the problem started and should not be the cause of the problem (they don't just go and re-set themselves).

If you don't find the fault yourself with the above checks, then take it to a guy who knows carbs.

It's not impossible to have a blocked jet either, even with a fuel filter, you can get debris coming off a perished fuel hose internally, after the filter and getting into the float chamber. However this is something that requires the stripping and cleaning of the carb and may not be part of your skill set.

Robbie, your Hilux is asking very polite for a EFI upgrade actually. Just spoil the Hilux a bit and enjoy more power towing uphill to Jozini.

Mud Dog wrote:That just doesn't sound right at all. The only time you turf a carb is if the butterfly bushes are worn to buggery and that's a simple thing to check. I'm afraid your friend doesn't know carbs. Take it to someone that does.

First things you can do yourself are to check the float level through the sight glass when the vehicle is standing on a level surface - the fuel level in the float bowl should be exactly on the halfway point and it should stay there when the motor is running - watch it at idle for about 20 seconds and then pick up the revs a fair bit and watch it again. If there is a level difference:
Level dropping, you have a fuel supply problem - could be a choked fuel filter or a weak fuel pump ...
Level rising, the needle and seat valve is leaking and needs to be replaced.

Check that all the vacuum hoses are in place and that they are not perished.

Check to see that the idle solenoid valve wire is connected (you'll see the solenoid with a black wire towards the back of the carb on the driver's side).

Take off the air supply to the top of the carb - the hose that's connected to it is just a crank breather and can be left disconnected for the purposes of the check. If the motor is already hot, the choke butterfly should be fully open but the test is best done from a cold start in the morning. Before starting and immediately after starting, the choke should be closed and open gradually as the motor warms up and it opens completely. If it's not doing that check that the wire at the back of the carb is connected and making proper contact (there is a connector further down ob that wire as well). Also check with a voltmeter that there is power on that wire when the motor is on. If the wire is ok with power and the choke remains closed, the bi-metal choke controller is poked (that's the black round thingy on the cab side [back] of the carb).

Don't fiddle with the settings - they were OK before the problem started and should not be the cause of the problem (they don't just go and re-set themselves).

If you don't find the fault yourself with the above checks, then take it to a guy who knows carbs.

Andy, all of the above was done today. Even air hosed the carb to clean possible blockings. Also ran thin stream of water around the carb to check for air leaks. He also mentioned that it may be the valves thats the problem. But again, (according to him) the labour to dismantle the whole carb and refurbish it, is going to cost more than a new one.

The whole issue started when we got to Kosi Bay in December. Idling got bad, and cut off randomly. I then adjusted the idling to compensate for that. Thus the reason I took it for a Dyno on Friday. Just to get the carb to its full potential. Everything was fine after that, but mentioned issues started on Saturday morning when engine was still cold. Today I also noticed a lack in power today.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

JohanM wrote:Robbie, your Hilux is asking very polite for a EFI upgrade actually. Just spoil the Hilux a bit and enjoy more power towing uphill to Jozini.

Ware woorde Johan. As ek net kon regkom met finansies en die regte parte vir so ombouing.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

Bliksempie wrote: ↑Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:29 pm

JohanM wrote:Robbie, your Hilux is asking very polite for a EFI upgrade actually. Just spoil the Hilux a bit and enjoy more power towing uphill to Jozini.

Ware woorde Johan. As ek net kon regkom met finansies en die regte parte vir so ombouing.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

Robbie ek vermoed die parte is die grootste issue om dit hierso te kry vir n redelike prys.

You said it dies when pushing brakes, I had the same problem. I could not figure it out, almost bought a new carb. It turned out to be my fuel filter was blocked but nor completely, somehow when I braked the debris would move and block fuel to the engine. Perhaps replace your fuel filter? You never know!!!

pampoen wrote:You said it dies when pushing brakes, I had the same problem. I could not figure it out, almost bought a new carb. It turned out to be my fuel filter was blocked but nor completely, somehow when I braked the debris would move and block fuel to the engine. Perhaps replace your fuel filter? You never know!!!

Fuel filter so te sê brand new. Service my bakkie every 10k, and was done 3000km back.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

Also check your fuel solenoid, sometimes especially when old they like to get stuck. I can send pics if you need but all you need to do is unscrew it and spray some wd40 to get it loose, mine still occasionally gets stuck even after cleaning, I have to turn off and on to get it to switch off sometimes.

Bliksempie wrote: ↑Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:44 pm

pampoen wrote:You said it dies when pushing brakes, I had the same problem. I could not figure it out, almost bought a new carb. It turned out to be my fuel filter was blocked but nor completely, somehow when I braked the debris would move and block fuel to the engine. Perhaps replace your fuel filter? You never know!!!

Fuel filter so te sê brand new. Service my bakkie every 10k, and was done 3000km back.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

How many fill ups is that? It is possible that dirty fuel could have contaminated that filter. try run a pipe straight onto the carb bypassing the filter if you don't want to spend too much.

pampoen wrote:Also check your fuel solenoid, sometimes especially when old they like to get stuck. I can send pics if you need but all you need to do is unscrew it and spray some wd40 to get it loose, mine still occasionally gets stuck even after cleaning, I have to turn off and on to get it to switch off sometimes.

Solenoid checked. Was replaced 2 years ago, and still fine. Took it out and earthed against engine. Kicks in 100%

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

pampoen wrote:

Bliksempie wrote: ↑Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:44 pm

pampoen wrote:You said it dies when pushing brakes, I had the same problem. I could not figure it out, almost bought a new carb. It turned out to be my fuel filter was blocked but nor completely, somehow when I braked the debris would move and block fuel to the engine. Perhaps replace your fuel filter? You never know!!!

Fuel filter so te sê brand new. Service my bakkie every 10k, and was done 3000km back.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

How many fill ups is that? It is possible that dirty fuel could have contaminated that filter. try run a pipe straight onto the carb bypassing the filter if you don't want to spend too much.

Done that as well. No difference

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

You said he possibly suspected valves .... did he do a compression test?

Robbie n WEBER carburetor werk ook baie goed op dardie engine van jou.Weet van iemand wat een het met adaptor plate om te koop sou jy dalk belangstel.

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:22 am You said he possibly suspected valves .... did he do a compression test?

Andy,

That's a negative. He didn't do it.

The Legend wrote: ↑Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:43 am Robbie n WEBER carburetor werk ook baie goed op dardie engine van jou.Weet van iemand wat een het met adaptor plate om te koop sou jy dalk belangstel.

Dawie, laat ek gou vandag kyk wat ek regkry, dan laat weet ek jou. Louis Zanoli het 'n standaard 22R Carb wat ek vandag na gaan kyk. Hopenlik kom ek reg.

Bliksempie wrote: ↑Thu Mar 15, 2018 5:35 am

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:22 am You said he possibly suspected valves .... did he do a compression test?

Andy,

That's a negative. He didn't do it.

Have it done before doing anything to the carb ... it could just be the valves although I have my doubts.