Weber Carb indentification

[glevey]

Hi All

Can anyone tell me which Weber model this is please.

http://www.flickr.com/gp/24703294@N00/c31B88

Cheers
Geoff

[Family_Dog]

Not the same as mine, yours looks much bigger.

-F_D

[glevey]

I think I found it - 32/36 DGV . Someone else 2 confirm

Cheers

Geoff

[Riceburner]

Looks like a 32\36 because the air mixture screw is the same place as mine. 36\36 and 38\38 sits in the middle of the choke tubes.

[glevey]

Thanks Riceburner,
Now to see what jets are in there.

Cheers
Geoff

[freeflyd]

Hi Geoff,

How is your carb going?

I have a 38/38 on a 2.2 4y which is horrible! Lots of pre ignition and very heavy on fuel.

A carb specialist suggested the 32/36 DGV...

[Mr_B]

Hi,

There was a Weber 38 on my lux when bought it, terrible! heavy on fuel, starvation on inclines, etc... I had a Nikki fitted, but now I'm not sure about it. When it was installed the guys that did it didn't reconnect all the vacuum pipes, so now I'm wondering what the blanked off pipes are meant to do. The one reason I would fit a Weber 36 is to get rid of the confusing vacuum pipes. This 32/36 DGV, has it been tested on inclines? I have heard that this Weber incline fuel starvation is a myth(I think from Riceburner), but I'd hate to have the myth become reality, after spending money buying/installing one.

F_D, how is the Weber on your lux doing? Is it manual or auto choke? My Nikki's choke seems to close to early, when the engine hasn't warmed up properly, which is pretty annoying. My Alfa's had Weber's with manual chokes, which I preferred to the auto choke.

Bretton

[Family_Dog]

Hi Bretton,

My Weber has a manual choke and even after standing for a few days in Winter, it starts very easily, but I do use the choke. As soon as she is running, I release the choke, and the vehicle runs just fine from then on. I like the Weber, it just seems to have a nice feel about it.

The Weber starvation on very steep inclines is no myth but can be cured if the Weber is mounted at a 90° angle to the norm. I just haven't found a suitable bracket for a 4Y engine, but if you come across a supply source, please keep me informed.

First prize is still an EFI conversion, but it must be at a realistic price for it to become worthwhile.


-F_D

[Mr_B]

Thanks F_D, question still remains carb or EFI... My engine is certainly not running that smooth that I don't need a choke for a while. Does anyone know if the Brospeed conversion requires different size jets in the carb to get the best out of it. I certainly think that my carb is not setup right, when I switch the headlights on or brake the revs drop significantly, about 400rpm, leading to the bakkie almost stalling... My nikki carb is "previously owned" and I have noticed a small tear in the accelerator diaphram, so this weekend I'm buying a carb kit and giving it a thorough service/clean. If this doesn't help, then maybe EFI is an option :) (yes I kind of hope I fail...)

Bretton

[Family_Dog]

Hi Snipes,

Something is definitely wrong with your setup. Switching the headlights on does indeed draw an additional load from an Alternator, but I've never yet heard of it ever slowing an engine down, even when idling.

Scott, Justin, Simon or Benhur might have some useful information on this but even with headlights & spots on, you're only drawing about 400W from a 67 (or whatever) kW engine, and that should not make any difference at all.

Refer this article for the overhauiling of a Nikki Carburettor:

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=844


-F_D

[Mr_B]

Thanks, F_D,

I've copied the whole Nikki overhaul article to a doc file and printed it, for reference for Saturday when the job commences.

I will open a new thread the headlight power drain/rpm drop issue. I think I should also take a look what light bulbs are in there, I've never looked since I bought the vehicle...

Bretton

[Family_Dog]

Snipes,

When I bought the SFA, it already had 100W headlight globes in. The IPF spots I fitted have 130W globes in, so that gives a total of 460, say 480W, with the tail lights on, and there is no difference in idle speed with my engine. Do you have a mechanical or electronic distributor? If mechanical, do you notice any movement if you suck on the vacuum pipe to the dizzy?

How easy does your engine turn over when you start it, freely or slowly? Is this a rebuilt engine?


-F_D

[Mr_B]

Hi F_D,

Motor is a brand new rebuild, rebored, new pistons, new timing gear, new oil pump, new head, new rocker shaft, pretty much a new motor. Done 1300km to date on mono 40w oil to run it in. At 1500km(probably next week) I will change the oil and have the head re-torqued, so maybe the engine is still tight, as well as the effects of the thick monograde oil. I have an original Toy electronic distributor, vacuum advance seems to be working fine. Timing is at 7deg. Engine starts easily, usually first swing and then fast idle kicks in to 2000rpm. Could it be a poor earth, faulty relay or a corroded wire? The last electrical fault on the bakkie took me all of a day to find, turned out to be a simple bad earth.

The alternator is in good nick, I replaced the diode pack, regulator and bearings not to long ago and had it tested. The globes are 90/100's so the load is max 200w.

Bretton

[Family_Dog]

I remember we started this conversation on the 4xforum, when I was wondering how good the Chinese version of the 4Y was and you mentioned you were rather going to redo the motor. I have also since redone my original 4Y, and am keeping it in wraps just in case, but I really must state that so far this Chinese 4Y is very good, the engine has also only done some 3,500km (I think... it's in for a respray right now) and she really does run very smoothly.

A really heavy load on your alternator can certainly affect idling speed, but then it would have to be very close to a dead short and your alternator or diodes would pop, so probably not that. Won't harm just to take some voltage readings from the alternator though, should be 13v or higher at idle, and could be up to 14.2v or so on fast revving.

I am suspecting the carb is not right, may not even be the correct one from what you said earlier. Your carb overhaul might cure your problems, could be sucking in air where it shouldn't.


-F_D

[Mr_B]

I agree with you, I'm starting at the carb, overhaul. That may explain why the motor feels under powered, it is the right carb, exactly the same one Scooter shows in the 'carb recon - how to' article. Mine has 2 pipes blanked off(not vacuum advance), and I have no idea where they are supposed to go or what they do. I'll take a pic over the weekend to show them. All else fails I may look into a Weber or EFI, what's annoying to me is that I spent money to get rid of the Weber 38 in the first place, now I'm contemplating getting one again, what a potential waste of cash.

Bretton

[Cookie Monster]

Hi Snipes

I also have to blanked of vacum pipes they are on the side closest to the tappet cover

[glevey]

Have not got around yet to seeing what jets are in my carb. Perhaps this weekend. I bought the vehicle with the carb on, and it also dies on very steep inclines. I have also heard that it just needs tobe turned around, but as F_D says one needs to find a bracket to do the mod.
I have also noticed, that if you go down a steep gradient slowly, in other words not using engine compression, it also cuts out from fuel starvation, but no problem if using the engine compression to brake. Fuel consumption is not good, about 5-5.5 km/l, but then again the vehicle is always loaded, ready for a trip. I only have to put food & clothes in and she is ready to hit the road.

Pictures can be seen at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/geoffrey_levey/

Cheers

Geoff

[Mr_B]

Hi guys,

The carb job never happened today I walked into the garage and realised this place is in no state to host a overhaul of a precision piece of equipment, so today was garage cleaning day. I do a reasonable amount of woodwork in my spare time so my garage is usually full of dust. It's clean now, 5 hours later... I did set the timing to 10deg as indicated by Scooter, results are good, idles better and I don't have that massive rpm drop when I turn the headlights on. Maybe the carb overhaul is not neccesary yet, but I still need to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm.

Hope you have all had a more entertaining Saturday than me... time to relax...

Bretton

[Niel]

Bretton, I started doing some wood work stuff myself (definately a beginner) would like to pop in one day and have a look and get some tips want to start building a few things fro Teak and African Rosewood.

[BenHur]

Bretton

Don't you want to come and visit me? I also have a garage in serious need of cleaning

[Mr_B]

Hi,

Niel, I would also class myself a beginner, I last did a serious project in Highschool, since then it's been minors, built the dogs a new kennel 6 months ago, because all the ones I could find at the shops were rubbish, then I refurbished an oak desk, recently I refurbished a cot and compactum for the new addition to the family, arriving next week!

Benhur, please give me your postal address, I'm courier'ing my vacuum cleaner up :-)

Bretton

[BenHur]

Mine needs more then just a vacuum unfortunately. The vacuum cleaner I have got it is the operator who is willing to use it that is lacking