Heatgauge: Something slightly amusing

[King Rat]

My heat gauge almost acts like a vacuum gauge in that in acceleration it moves upwards and when slowing down it correspondingly moves downwards. Stopping a robot or stop street it again returns upwards. Standing still and revving the engine makes no difference.
Constant speed on the highway also keeps it in the upward range. Any explanation?
:wth:

[Mr_B]

Sounds like some sort of earth leakage... check the connection on the sender unit! Also check that the main earth connection on the block in clean, tight and corrosion free... Is it possible that the sender unit could be faulty?

All non electrical(mechanical) possiblities are too scary to discuss!

B

[JBurger]

My heat gauge almost acts like a vacuum gauge in that in acceleration it moves upwards and when slowing down it correspondingly moves downwards. Stopping a robot or stop street it again returns upwards. Standing still and revving the engine makes no difference.
Constant speed on the highway also keeps it in the upward range. Any explanation?
:wth:

You still driving the V6? The gauge is saying that under power, you have an immediate increase in heat build up and when you take your foot off, the cooling is significant. Can this be a correct indication, meaning that that the regulator is stuck open, or worse, partly closed? Revving the motor does not seem to have any effect, possibly due to realtively 'correct/optimum' fuel air mixture, as opposed to being under power when you have a large throttle opening and high boost with not the same amount of cooling due to increased engine/fan speed?

Very strange, please tell us if you have found the problem..

[King Rat]

Ja, still driving the V6. I checked the engine and it uses almost no oil(valve guides leaking as per usual Ford) and still purring nicely. It doesn’t come close to overheating and the oil temp stays constantly good. So I guess Bretton is probably right in the earth leakage scenario. But, as usual for these radiators, it's leaking slightly so that could also play a role :?

And if it’s mechanical and cataclysmic it will cost me 5 grand to overhaul so nae worries mate

[Riceburner]

I have the same problem with my V6 as well, let me know because I have tried everything and gave. up I just put a piece on duct tape over the gage.

[Toybox]

I had a similar problem in my lux. Soon as the revs went up for any length of time the heat gauge would climb. Stop and idle and the gauge dropped quickly.

After many sleepness nights, it turned out to be a faulty regulator. The regulator was pusing out almost 17 volts at high revs. Replaced the regulator and the problem went away.

[King Rat]

No no no Darryl, that's no way to solve a problem

I'll check out the regulator Jonathan, must just find the thing

[BenHur]

Coenie

The problem may just be that you have a proper working guage. Hilux heat gauges are known to show no movement of the needle for quite a big fluctuation of water temperature. It might be a case of an electrical problem (like the 17V regulator) making the needle more sensitive the normal.

On Cassie's 22R we saw that while driving and switching on the engine parameter measurement graph in the Dicktator program the line for water temperature moved up and down in relation with the Manifold Vacuum line, so as you stepped on the throttle the heat went up and as you took your foot off it fell immediately. This all happened while the heat gauge did not move a notch.

[Family_Dog]

No no no Darryl, that's no way to solve a problem

I'll check out the regulator Jonathan, must just find the thing

The VR pushing out nearly 17v is going to cause many problems, including blown headlights, all other lights, bulging battery, blown electronics. You need to change it immediately. Check to see that your battery is not bulging because of over-charge.


-F_D

[Mud Dog]

I tend to think it's a regulator problem as well, but it's important to fix that radiator. Cooling is improved significantly if the coolant is pressurised (which happens naturally with heat expansion), but if there is any leak the pressure dissipates. On average, engine coolant water without additives in a leak free system only begins to boil at 106 to 108 deg. C, as opposed to 100 deg. at sea level atmospheric pressure. Therefore if you are inland without adequate pressure containment, the problem is worse. You'd be surprised how quickly you can boil out all the coolant if it gets to that stage. Anti-freeze is also a must, besides increasing the boiling point, it lubricates the pump bearings and helps to control rust / corrosion in the cooling system.

You probably know all this already, just a reminder to get it done. :D

[King Rat]

Checked out the regulator and it's charging at about 13,5V. You guys had me worried there!

Thanx for the advise Andy, I must get the radiator fixed, I've been busy building another car and have been lazy. In my own experience with these older type radiators I've had them leaking when cold but sealing when on normal operating temp on most of my older model cars for some strange reason. Probably they expand and retract and small cracks tend to appear eventually.

[ThysdJ]

I must get the radiator fixed

Gooi eier of kerrie... dan ruik jou Hilux soos brekfis...

[Mud Dog]

Surprisingly those remedies actually work for a short period, .... often long enough to get you home.